Choosing Your Aquarium
Lighting
By Robert Paul H.
Many people become totally frustrated when trying to
grow aquatic plants because they only seem to last a
month or two before the leafs fall off and the stems
begin to rot. Some people even think this is the normal
way of growing plants in the aquarium! Not so! Any plant
if grown under the right conditions can last for many
years!
The most critical thing for continued plant growth is
lighting which is also the chief reason why plants fail
in the first 30 to 60 days. Plants require a certain
light intensity in order to generate photosynthesis and
grow. Over fertilization does not make up for poor
lighting, neither does extended light periods.
For all tanks but very small ones, the lighting that
comes with standard aquarium set ups is inadequate.
Plant species fall into three general light categories:
low light level, moderate light level, and bright light
level. Light intensity is measured in lumens, but to
simplify things a general rule of thumb of watts per
gallon has been established. Low light is considered to
be a minimum of 1.5 to 2 watts per gallon of water,
while bright light levels are 3 or more watts per gallon
of water. Moderate is somewhere in between two and
three. Shallow tanks such as a ten gallon can get by
with less. Stem or "bunch" plants which are cuttings,
require a bright light in order to take root and grow.
Most however are extremely fast growers with the right
amount of light. Many rosette or rooted plants such as
Swords require either moderate or low light levels.
3 watts per gallon! How do I
get that many light bulbs over my tank?
Tanks under 55 gallon can be a challenge. There are
fluorescent strip fixtures made for the aquarium that
can sit on top of a glass cover. Cheaper alternatives
are fluorescent cabinet or shelf light fixtures, and for
48" long tanks you can use dual tube 48" shop light
fluorescent fixtures that run around $8 at local
hardware stores.
High Intensity Lighting
Another alternative is high intensity lighting such as
VHO fluorescent and Metal Halide. VHOs are around triple
the wattage of standard fluorescent and require a
special ballast that can handle the high wattage. VHOs
give an even light displacement across the tank, and run
cooler than Metal Halide.
Metal Halide is a high wattage spot light that can
attach to a wooden hood or hang suspended above an open
tank. Each bulb covers about a four foot square area.
They generate a large amount of heat which needs to be
ventilated by fans in a closed system.
MH comes in the following wattages:
|
70 Watt |
|
100 Watt |
|
150 Watt |
|
175 Watt |
|
250 Watt |
|
400 Watt |
|
1000 Watt |
Not all of these wattages may be available in a full
spectrum.
Power Compact Fluorescent
Since this article was originally written, power
compact fluorescents have advanced and become the most
preferred choice for upgrading lights.
These U shaped bulbs are brighter than standard
fluorescents, but are much more compact in size,
allowing much higher wattage/more intensive light to be
used in small places. Retrofit kits like this one
pictured from
www.hellolights.com can be attached easily to a
homemade hood or canopy. The typical ballast powers one
or two bulbs, and is small enough to hide away easily.
Standard size PC bulbs are 9 watt, 13 watt, 28 watt,
36 watt, 55 watt, and 96 watt. Customsealife has come
out with a 65 watt bulb.
There are two lamp base styles: German and Japanese,
each with different pin settings. They are not
inter-changeable
|

Japanese 4 pin square |

German style 4 pin straight |
Color Spectrum or kelvin
The term kelvin designates the color spectrum of the
light bulb. A "full spectrum" bulb is anything between
5000k and 6500k. This has nothing to do with brightness,
and bulbs that are very high in the color spectrum,
(10,000k) have no value to plant growth. Standard
fluorescent, VHOs, and MH all come in full spectrum.
Shy fish and bright light
This issue should be taken into account while planning
your set up. Dark hiding places, dark gravel, dither
fish, and tall plants providing shade will help to
comfort shy fish such as Apistogrammas and Discus in a
brightly lit tank.
Symptoms of insufficient light
- plants weak and frail
- leafs pale green to yellowish
- stems thin
- rosette plants have small leafs on weak stalks
- stem plants have few leafs and widely spaced,
long internodes
- close to the light source growth is vigorous and
compact, lower stems barren, (this can also happen
in brightly lit tanks when plants are crowed
together so enough light does not reach the lower
stems)
Fluorescents
| Length |
Watts |
| Standard Bulbs use 425 milliamps |
| 18" |
15W |
| 24" |
20W |
| 36" |
30W |
| 48" |
40W |
| High Output (HO) Uses 800
milliamps |
| 24" |
40W |
| 48" |
60W |
| 60" |
75W |
| 72" |
85W |
| Very High Output (VHO) uses 1500
milliamps |
| 24" |
75W |
| 36" |
95W |
| 48" |
110W |
| 60" |
140W |
| 72" |
160W |
Light intensity in relation to CO2 (quote by Sean
Murphy, Fisheries / Wetlands Biologist)
"Intensive light creates a higher photosynthesis rate in
plants then does moderate or low levels of light. Ok,
basic botany, Plants use light and CO2 to create sugars
via photosynthesis, they use the sugars and O2 for
respiration, synthesis, and growth. For some reason
higher plants retard respiration and growth in tissues
that are actively photosynthesizing, (ever wonder why a
plant bends towards a light?). Active photosynthesis
also assists the plant in the uptake of nutrients. The
easy pathway for aquatic plants to obtain CO2 is when it
is dissolved in water. The hard way is from the
stripping of CO2 from bicarbonate dissolved in the
water.
- Problem 1)
- High levels of photosynthesis require an
adequate level of CO2 to maintain the process. If no
CO2 is added to an intense light situation, the
bicarbonates will be stripped leaving a free -OH
molecule to combine with free +H (making H2O) that
was set free when carbonic acid (dissolved CO2)
dissociated. If there is another source of
bicarbonate other then carbonic acid then +H made
available from other acid's will be removed from
solution to compensate for the increase in -OH. When
the +H is taken up like this the pH rises. By not
adding CO2 the pH swings in a limited body of water
(aquarium) become quite large.
- Problem 2)
- Algae does not have a restriction on respiration
during photosynthesis, when the plants start to slow
down the photosynthetic pathways due to the lack of
CO2, the uptake of nutrients also slows down. Algae
take advantage of this situation taking up valuable
nutrients while the higher plants are struggling for
CO2. Algae bloom.
Aquariums are a balancing act, if you can find the right
balance of light and CO2 addition then you should have
an easier time maintaining a beautiful tank. If optimum
growth is a goal you really need to cover the bases. If
only good growth is a goal then you can do less
intensive gardening, i.e. no CO2 additions, under a
moderate light source." |