Community tank catfish: more than Corydoras by Neale Monks


Rineloricaria parva

Lots of aquarists keep catfish, but often it’s the same handful of species that seem to be found in most community tanks. Some of that’s down to the retail side of the hobby that likes to stock species it knows sell well. But there’s also a lack of knowledge among hobbyists, many of whom assume that Corydoras catfish are the only small, peaceful catfish suited to community tank life.

 

In this post we’ll be looking at some of the other choices available to aquarists. Some of these species are mass-produced on farms and routinely traded, others only turn up seasonally when wild-caught specimens are exported from their natural habitat, but there’s nothing on this list that should be difficult to find.

pygmy corydoras

Pygmy Corydoras

 

Even though Corydoras aren’t the subject of this article, I am going to start with a trio of pygmy species, Corydoras habrosus, Corydoras hastatus, and Corydoras pygmaeus. Of these, the first is probably the most often seen, being traded as the Salt-and-Pepper Catfish. But all three are very similar in size and habits, which is why they’re worth discussing together.

 

In short, they’re miniature versions of the Corydoras we known and love, only getting to about an inch (2.5 cm) in length. Apart from their small size, another odd thing about them is that they’re as much midwater fish as bottom-feeders, and if kept alongside other small, peaceful tankmates of similar size they will buzz around the lower level of the aquarium like a swarm of bees. Absolutely charming fish, they are superb additions to planted tanks, particularly when kept in large numbers. Like almost all Corydoras species they are adaptable in terms of water chemistry but do prefer relatively cool water, 72-77˚F (22-25˚C), and as such will work best with other low-end tropical species such as Celestial Pearl Danios and Cherry Shrimps.

 

Like all catfish, these Corydoras appreciate a soft, sandy substrate. Smooth silica sand is the ideal, and this is sometimes available from garden centres but otherwise traded as pool filter sand. Note that some aquarium sands are abrasive and should be avoided, particularly those sands produced as a byproduct from glass manufacturer, for example Tahitian Moon Sand. When kept in tanks with abrasive sand, catfish often loose the tips of their whiskers, and such damage can be an easy way in for bacterial infections like Finrot.

 

Suckermouth Catfish

 

When it comes to the family Loricariidae, Otocinclus reign supreme in the minds of those aquarists maintaining planted tanks. To their credit, these dwarf suckermouth catfish will consume green algae and are small enough not to damage plants, something that can’t be said for some of the larger suckermouth catfish. But Otocinclus are delicate fish that need relatively cool, very clean water with lots of oxygen and their use in the average community tank cannot be recommended. Most specimens kept in such aquaria end up either starved to death or suffocated by the marginal water quality.

 

By far the best community tank suckermouth are the various Ancistrus species, often sold as Bristlenose Catfish. They’re medium-sized catfish, typically 5 inches (12 cm) long, and considerably more adaptable than Otocinclus. They aren’t fussy about water chemistry or temperature, and really only expect good water quality and a suitably mixed diet including algae wafers, softened vegetables, and meaty foods such as bloodworms. The most commonly traded species is black with white spots when young but gradually fades to mottled brown as it ages. There are some species that retail their colours throughout their lives though, including L183, Ancistrus dolichopterus, a species that is grey with white spots and sports lovely blue-white edges to its dorsal and tail fins.

Ancistrus are mildly territorial, and each specimen will expect its own cave and about a square foot of space. One of the nicest things about Ancistrus is that they are quite easy to breed, and the males are such good guardians of their eggs and fry that they can even breed successfully in community tanks.

 

If algae control isn’t a prime motivation, there are a couple of small suckermouth catfish worth considering. The first is Parotocinclus jumbo, a species that gets to about 2 inches/5 cm in length and looks like a metallic grey, robust Otocinclus catfish. Although similar to Otocinclus in looks, these catfish are very different in nature. For a start, they’re quite robust fish that aren’t fussy about water chemistry or temperature, provided extremes are avoided. Not are they good algae eaters, and prefer to consume algae wafers, softened vegetables, and occasionally offerings of meaty foods like bloodworms. They don’t swim about much in midwater, and tend to stay close to rocks, plants and bogwood roots. However, like Otocinclus, they are schooling fish, and shouldn’t be kept in groups of fewer than five specimens.

 

A second species to think about is the Whiptail Catfish Rineloricaria parva, though other, similar species are traded as well. I can’t say too much in favour of this catfish. It’s very easy to keep, adaptable with regard to water chemistry provided extremes are avoided, does well between 72-79˚F/22-26˚C, and gets along with anything that leaves it alone. They are stick-thin catfish up to about 4 inches/10 cm in length, light brown in colour, and sporting a whip-like extension to the upper lobe of the tail fin that may be almost as long as the catfish itself! Whiptails are mildly territorial but work best kept in groups where their fun social behaviour can be observed. Males are more bristly around the head than the females and tend to shoo each other away from their little territories, while females are more easy going and often group together. Whiptails amble about the tank by walking rather than swimming, sometimes propping themselves up on their pelvic fins. The one thing to remember about them is that they’re carnivores rather than herbivores, and will need to be fed the same sort of diet as loaches and Corydoras.

Kryptopterus minor

 

Glass Catfish

Historically two transparent catfish were traded as aquarium fish, most commonly an Asian species described as Kryptopterus bicirrhis, and more sporadically an African species listed as Eutropiellus debauwi. In fact it’s questionable that either of these were ever traded much, and the two glass catfish of the hobby were likely completely different species.

 

In the case of the Asian Glass Catfish, the species seen in shops is Kryptopterus minor, a catfish from Southeast Asia that gets to about 3 inches/8 cm in length. It can do well in soft or moderately hard water, but dislikes excessively warm water, so aim for around 72-79˚C/22-26˚C for best results. In fact despite its fragile appearance this fish is quite hardy and adaptable, and works well in planted community tanks alongside small tetras and rasboras. It likes to rest in shady areas where the water flow is sluggish, but during the night scoots about in stronger water currents hunting for food. Though quite easy to keep, this catfish is highly gregarious and must be kept in groups of at least six specimens; when kept in smaller numbers it is notorious for simply pining away. Feeding can be tricky because these catfish are nocturnal and feed on stuff they find in the water current rather than by hunting along the bottom. Live brine shrimp, daphnia and mosquito larvae are particularly appreciated, as are their wet-frozen substitutes; settled specimens will consume flake food as well, and can be trained to feed during the day instead of at night.

Parotocinclus maculicauda

 

The African Glass Catfish of the hobby is probably Pareutropius buffei, a species that differs from Eutropiellus debauwi (actually, properly called Pareutropius debauwi) by having three black stripes along its body instead of one. In most regards this species is very similar to the Asian Glass Catfish in terms of size and requirements, being a small, gregarious midwater hunter that favours invertebrate prey. It does enjoy strong water currents though, and may be the better choice for a river biotope aquarium.

Synodontis nigriventris

 

Synodontis

The most popular African catfish are to be found in the genus Synodontis within the family Mochokidae. While they are all quite similar in shape, they do vary in size and personality, some being small and peaceful, while others much larger and more territorial. On the plus side, they’re all hardy and adaptable, and the big species can hold their own alongside territorial cichlids of similar size.

 

For aquarists with planted tanks, Synodontis nigriventris is the stand-out species. Sold as the Dwarf Upside-Down Catfish this species only gets to about 3 inches/8 cm in length and has pretty and very variable dark brown and cream squiggles all over its body. Males and females are quite similar in colouration, though the females tend to be slightly bigger and much stockier. Synodontis nigriventris has a reputation for being very shy, but part of that is because it’s too often kept singly; it is a very social species and should be kept in groups of at least three specimens. When kept that way it quickly becomes much bolder and will happily swim about during the day.

 

Synodontis multipunctatus and Synodontis tanganicae are smallish species native to Lake Tanganyika that work well in hard water communities. While they’re obvious choices for use alongside Tanganyikan cichlids of similar size, they’d also work well with community fish that need similar water conditions, for example Central American livebearers or even Australian rainbowfish. They wouldn’t be so good with most of the Malawian cichlids though, as these tend to be much more aggressive than the Tanganyikan cichlids, particularly the rock-dwelling mbuna.

 

Bagrids

 

The Bagridae are a family of Asian catfish species that inhabit lakes, rivers and even estuaries. Most species are quite large, and for that reason their popularity as community fish has been limited, but there are some community tank species worth considering. All are predatory, but they are great opportunists and readily take pellets as well as the usual fresh, wet-frozen and live foods.

Mystus bimaculatus

 

At a mere 1.5 inches/4 cm in length, Mystus bimaculatus is one of the smallest of the bagrids and intensely social, so should be kept in a group of five or more specimens. They are pinkish-brown with a black spot behind the gill covers and a second black spot on the base of the tail fin. Their whiskers are extremely long. In the wild this fish comes from very soft and acidic streams and pools, but they are reasonably adaptable and should do well in anything from soft to slightly hard water conditions. The main thing is to ensure excellent water quality: like a lot of blackwater fish, they can be peculiarly sensitive to bacterial infections when water quality is compromised. Given their small size and quite attractive colours, a school of these fish would add a lot of character to a densely planted, shady aquarium with a soft substrate. They are too small to cause much trouble as predators, but will livebearer fry and other bite-sized tankmates.

 

The Pearl Catfish Mystus armatus is typical of a range of medium-sized species that get imported from time to time. It gets to about 5 inches/12 cm in length and should thrive in any clean, well-oxygenated tropical aquarium of sufficient size. It is basically pinkish-brown in colour with a pearly iridescence and looks particularly good in planted aquaria with bright, open areas where it can swim about freely. Although large enough to eat small fish such as danios, it gets along well with gouramis, medium-sized barbs, and other fish of approximately similar size.

 

Close

 

This article does little more than scratch the surface of catfish diversity, it does at least highlight the fact that catfish are a lot more suitable for community tanks and planted tanks than many aquarists suppose. Even if they lack the colours of barbs and tetras, it has to be admitted catfish have lots of personality!

FUNCTIONAL FISH FOR A SMALL, LOW-LIGHT AQUARIUM


FUNCTIONAL FISH FOR A SMALL, LOW-LIGHT AQUARIUM

A fishy tale 

By Bruce Lucas

INTRODUCTION

A friend of mine who worked at a pet store talked about these fish called “oscars” that ate goldfish. They sounded cool. I told him I had to get some of these just so I could feed them goldfish. He told me to come in and buy a tank and he would give me a “discount” on the rest of the equipment. A five-finger discount that is. Yes, we were in high school.

So there I was with my first pet fish–3 juvenile oscars in a 10 gallon aquarium. Rather than tell a horror story which involves my complete ignorance of the nitrogen cycle and their eventual move to a 55 gallon aquarium which still was not big enough, I will tell a happier, more peaceful story.

The apartment complex I now live in allows a maximum aquarium size of 20 gallons. This does not give much room to work with if you desire a variety of fish. I wanted lots of fish swimming around, but did not want the fish to suffer in pollution. Been there, done that. The (now) obvious answer to the dilemma is a well-planted aquarium. I read about all the high-tech gadgetry available, but the capital cost turned me away. So I was pretty much stuck with a small, low-light, and relatively low-tech planted aquarium.

Here is a summary of my constraints:
· Small aquarium size: 20 gal (24″ L ´ 12″ W ´ 18″ H)
· High fish count: crowded aquarium with 15 to 20 fish
· Low light: normal output fluorescent light supplied at 20 W/ft2 or 2 W/gal (40 W total)
· Low carbon supplementation: Seachem Flourish Excel dosed at 0.1 mL/gal/day (2 mL/day)

INITIAL SETUP

The first plants introduced were amazon swords (Echinodorus bleheri), java fern (Microsorum pteropus), and java moss (Vesicularia dubyana). These all showed satisfactory growth under the 40 W of normal fluorescent light. Do not ask about my attempts to grow plants in the old oscar tank.

Regarding lighting, “they” fooled me in the beginning though. I bought specialty aquarium tubes: Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamp and Coralife 50/50 Fluorescent Lamp. Sure, my plants grew well, but I could have achieved the same results with $5 GE Plant & Aquarium or GE Sunshine tubes instead. Lesson learned. Stay away from the overpriced $10-20 tubes. Any benefits they may provide are not worth the extra money.

The only good thing about the Coralife 50/50 tube was how amazing it made my neon tetras look. I started with a dozen neon tetras. They were 5 for $2, plus every now and then you get a free one from the local fish store. I suppose it was the actinic blue that made them so eye-catching in my tank. The neon tetras pretty much glowed.

Along with the neons, I bought corydoras catfish. They stay small and keep to the bottom of the tank except when getting air from the surface. Their size was their big selling point for me. I did not want another fast-growing catfish like the blue channel catfish I used to have. The blue channel catfish was with the oscars of course.


Corydoras julii

I decided on 3 leopard corydoras (Corydora julii) and 3 panda corydoras (C. panda). It turned out that what were sold as leopard corydoras were really three line corydoras (C. trilineatus). Two of the panda corydoras died and were replaced with 2 peppered corydoras (C. paleatus). The pandas are well-known to be delicate, while the peppered have a reputation for being extremely hardy.

Now I had a dozen fish swimming in the middle and top sections of the tank along with a half-dozen fish swimming along the bottom of the tank. Everything was fine now, right? Wrong.

BIG PROBLEM

A new dilemma presents itself. The high number of well-fed fish is a considerable source of waste, particularly nitrates. There are low-light plants (e.g. Hygrophila polysperma) that will grow at a steady pace which require regular pruning, but they will not be big enough sinks for all of the nitrates. Algae-free will not be a suitable term used to describe this aquarium. There simply is not enough light and carbon available for the plants to utilize all of the nitrates and other waste products. Floating plants may be able to get around the carbon and light shortages, but they would shade the tank, which I do not want.

PRACTICAL SOLUTION

After a case of ich decimated the neon tetras there was an opportunity to create and enforce a new policy on selecting fish. I decided to simply stock the tank with fish that serve a functional purpose in the aquarium. For the most part, this means having a variety of algae eaters. This makes sense anyway since there is not a single fish (at least not well-known and readily available) that eats every type of freshwater algae, stays small, and does not harm plants. If there was, then I am sure its common name would be Holy Grail.

There are other functions that may be met by aquarium fish including snail eater, water quality indicator, and scavenger.

The chosen algae eaters were otos (Otocinclus sp.), a bristlenose pleco (Ancistrus sp.), rosey barbs (Barbus conchonius), and cherry barbs (Puntius titteya). A yo-yo loach (Botia lohachata) got the job for snail eater. The rummy nose tetra (Hemigrammus bleheri) serves as a water quality indicator. The surviving corydoras get to stay since they will scavenge.

Here is a brief overview of the fish I chose and specifically what they are good for. You can find additional details elsewhere.

Otos
I keep 6 otos in my aquarium. I started with only 2 to get rid of brown algae on the glass and some plants. They will also consume soft, green algae. I added more to keep the green algae in check. Six is probably the minimum number you want to have, even in a small tank like mine. Younger ones seem to be more active during the day whereas older ones are shyer. Even the shy ones eat their share of algae. You just do not see them do it. Their fat, round bellies are evidence of that.

Bristlenose Pleco
I recently added a bristlenose pleco to consume more algae in bulk. Think of it like a super-size oto. Its big mouth will clear wide paths of algae compared to the smaller mouths of the otos. It may have trouble eating algae from the tip of long, slender leaves due to its size. The otos can take care of the tips. A clown pleco is an alternative to the bristlenose pleco, but it is debated whether a clown consumes as much algae as a bristlenose. Both maintain a small size suitable for a small aquarium.

Rosy Barbs
My 3 rosey barbs were brought in to take care of hair/beard algae that threatened to take over the tank. They seem to be constantly hungry, which is just fine with me. It does not take them long to eat away at the tough to remove algae until it is out of sight. Siamese algae eaters are a more well-known alternative for eating these types of algae, but they are not as readily available as rosey barbs. They can be aggressive towards each other at times, but I have not noticed any inflicted damage. If the tank was bigger, then I would get at least a couple more.

Cherry Barbs
I tried 3 cherry barbs before the rosey barbs to attack the hair/beard algae. Maybe they ate some and maybe they did not. I do know that they were not up to the challenge of keeping it in check. They also nip at java moss, but the java moss grows way faster than it can be eaten. I suppose it was the same way with the case of hair/beard algae in my tank. They are smaller and more colorful than the rosey barbs though. Keep a mix of males and females (e.g. 1 female with 2 males) if you want the males to maintain their bright red color. They are tougher than neons too.

Rummy Nose Tetra
I once saw an article about discus, which recommended keeping rummy nose tetras with the discus. The reason is that the rummy nose’s bright red nose will fade in poor water quality. So I added a rummy nose tetra to clue me in to any disastrous problems. After I know for sure that I will not make any significant changes to my tank and no problems arise for some time, I will probably remove the rummy nose.

Yo-Yo Loach
Whenever you add plants, you run the risk of adding snails too. The yo-yo loach is a snail-eating machine. Without supplemental food tablets, it will continue to eat all snails in sight. They also keep a small size with a slender shape. When you hate pond snails in your tank, it is quite a sight to see empty snail shells littering the substrate. My loach is a bully at feeding time. Perhaps a month or so after I finish experimenting with new plants in my aquarium, I will try to catch the yo-yo loach and put it elsewhere. Try.

Corydora sp.
The different corydoras in the tank will all scavenge the bottom of the tank in search of food. They are not left solely to scavenge. They are fed 6 nights a week. In case any flakes or micropellets fed to the barbs and rummy nose find their way to the bottom of the tank, the corydoras will surely take care of them.

MAINTENANCE
Here is the maintenance breakdown for my aquarium:

Daily
· Dose 2 mL of Flourish Excel in the morning.
· Feed the barbs and rummy nose once in the morning.
· Feed the corydoras once at night.

Weekly
· Change 1/3 of the water to reduce nitrates from 20 ppm to 10 ppm.
· Prune the stem plants and toss out handfuls of java moss as needed.
· Throw in a slice of blanched cucumber, which lasts two days.
· Dose KCl (20 ppm K) and MgSO4×7H2O (5 ppm Mg) (twice a week)

Bimonthly
· Break 2 houseplant fertilizer sticks into 3 pieces each and distribute them throughout the tank under the sword and stem plants.

CONCLUSION
It is possible to have a small tank which is: (1) low-tech so it is relatively inexpensive to setup; (2) have a variety of plants, some of which grow fast and some which do not; (3) have several varieties of fish each bringing its own color and charm; and most importantly, (4) keep algae in control so you can spend more of your time observing your fish than cleaning up their home. I do not scrape algae off the glass or the plants. There is always some kind of algae present in the tank, especially on my slower-growing plants, Cryptocoryne wendtii and Anubias barteri var nana, but I leave the fish to take care of it for me. Since algae are not a concern anymore, I am free to increase the variety of low-light plants including the slower-growing species which might otherwise suffocate under a blanket of algae.

Corydoras Catfish Corydoras spp

by staff

Corydoras Catfish, or Cory Cats as they are more commonly known, are a placid algae eating species which make a useful addition to the freshwater aquarium.

At around 6cm in length, Cory Cats are easy to care for and a good choice for beginners and anyone restricted to a somewhat smaller aquarium size. Cory Cats are found wild in a wide variety of habitats in South America.

While the name Corydoras Catfish describes nearly 150 different species within the family, all Cory Cats can be distinguished by the four barbels located by their mouths. These funny appendages are used by Cory Cats to search for food which has fallen on the tank floor (or river bed in the wild). This habit is very appealing to the aquarium owner, as it helps to balance out the amount of waste in the tank. Despite the fact that Cory Cats do assist in tank cleaning, normal aquarium maintenance should be carried out by the owner on a regular basis.

Although Corydoras Catfish are primarily algae feeders they need a varied diet to maintain their health. The species nose around in the aquarium substrate looking for scraps, but your tank many not provide enough algae to create a correct nutritional balance. Algae Wafers can be bought at specialist pet shops, and are said to be a great favourite of Cory Cats. Blood worms and brine shrimp can also be used to supplement their diet as well as other live or frozen meat foods.

Cory Cats are generally calm and non aggressive and prefer to be kept in groups of six or more. To encourage schooling behaviours, ensure that each individual is of the same Corydoras species. Other fish which can happily share an aquarium with Cory Cats include Tetras, Siamese Fighting Fish, Discus Fish and Mollies.

In the wild, Cory Cats are found in rivers and streams around as the Amazon basin region, and to see them thrive they will need a tank which gives them space to swim, foraging opportunities and hiding places. The minimum aquarium size for keeping Corydoras Catfish is 10 gallons, and experienced aquarium keepers usually recommend that beginners start with the largest tank they can afford. Its helpful to use aquatic plants in your tank, not only to add decoration but help to aerate the water. In their native habitat, Amazon Sword Grass and tree roots provide Cory Cats with shelter and nibbles, and these can be added to the tank to help replicate their natural environment. Cory Cats can be somewhat sensitive to temperature, so dramatic changes should be avoided. A good water temperature is between 22-26°C with a PH of between 6.6 and 7.

With the correct care and attention, Cory Cats can live for many years, with some examples reaching 20! This friendly species is not only a pleasure to watch at play, but it works hard to help keep your freshwater aquarium clean and fresh.