Water Plants 101

A basic Introduction to the physiology and ecology of aquatic plants

By Dave Huebert

Carbon Dioxide

Dissolved Inorganic Carbon (DIC) in freshwater occurs as four different species in equilibrium with one another. The four species of DIC are; carbon dioxide (CO2), carbonic acid (H2CO3), bicarbonate (HCO3-), and carbonate (CO3=). The total amount of DIC largely determines the buffering capacity of freshwater, and the ratio of these species with one another largely determines the pH. Carbon dioxide dissolves readily in water. At air equilibrium, the concentration of CO2 in air and water is approximately equal at about 0.5 mg/L. Unfortunately, CO2 diffuses about ten thousand times slower in water than in air. This problem is compounded by the relatively thick unstirred layer (or Prandtl boundary) that surrounds aquatic plant leaves. The unstirred layer in aquatic plants is a layer of still water through which gases and nutrients must diffuse to reach the plant leaf. It is about 0.5 mm thick, which is ten times thicker than in terrestrial plants. The result is that approximately 30 mg/L free CO2 is required to saturate photosynthesis in submerged aquatic plants.

The low diffusivity of CO2 in water, the relatively thick unstirred layer and the high CO2 concentration needed to saturate photosynthesis have prompted one scientist to state, “For freshwater submerged aquatic macrophyte plants, the naturally occurring DIC levels impose a major limitation on photosynthesis … The DIC limitations on aquatic macrophytes and its corollary, the need to conserve carbon, are becoming increasingly apparent as important ecological features of aquatic environments (George Bowes, ‘Inorganic Carbon Uptake by Aquatic Photosynthetic Organisms, 1985).”

Aquatic plants have adapted to CO2 limitation in several ways. They have thin, often dissected leaves. This increases the surface to volume ratio and decreases the thickness of the unstirred layer. They have extensive air channels, called aerenchyma, that allow gases to move freely throughout the plants. This allows respired CO2 to be trapped inside the plant and in some species even allows CO2 from the sediment to diffuse into the leaves. Finally, many species of aquatic plants are able to photosynthesize using bicarbonate as well as CO2. This is important, since at pH values between 6.4 and 10.4 the majority of DIC in freshwater exists in the form of bicarbonate.

For the aquarist, the supply of CO2 can be augmented in two ways. Both methods work by increasing the rate of diffusion of CO2 into the plants. First, the rate of water movement in the aquarium can be increased. This will decrease the thickness of the boundary layer and ensure that CO2 levels are at air equilibrium. This method is inexpensive, easy to implement and will produce excellent growth of aquatic plants under most conditions. Secondly, CO2 can be injected into the aquarium. This method can be expensive, and if done improperly, can be lethal to fish. This latter method is only essential, however, if there is a significant daily pH fluctuation in the aquarium, or if the species of plants being cultured are completely unable to use bicarbonate (such as Cabomba sp.).

Light Plant chlorophyll absorbs light at wavelengths of 400 to 700 nm. This is termed Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR). The intensity of full, natural sunlight is approximately 2,000 umoles/m2/s, or 100 klux, of PAR. Light is attenuated rapidly in freshwater, however, so that submerged aquatic plants receive far less than this amount.

Submerged aquatic plants are adapted to the low light levels found in freshwater, and are classified as shade plants on the basis of these adaptations. For instance, aquatic plant chloroplasts, which are the organelles that contain chlorophyll, are often located in the top cell layer of leaves to ensure that as much light as possible is absorbed. Additionally, photosynthesis is saturated at only 15 to 50% full sunlight intensity. Aquatic plants also have a low light compensation point (LCP). The LCP is the point at which the rate of photosynthesis equals the rate of respiration and growth stops. This allows them to grow to depths that receive only 1 to 4% full sunlight (20 to 80 umoles/m2/s PAR).

For the aquarist, high light intensities are those which saturate photosynthesis. Only metal halide bulbs can provide this level of intensity. Medium intensities can be provided by 2 to 4 Watts per gallon of fluorescent lights. At this level of intensity, photosynthesis will not be at its highest level but will still be greater than respiration. Anything less than 2 Watts per gallon is low light. At this level of lighting, light compensation points will be approached for many aquatic plants and only the most light tolerant species will flourish. The attenuation of light in water is wavelength specific. Water absorbs light in the infrared and ultraviolet bands of the spectrum, organic solutes absorb blue, violet and ultraviolet light, phytoplankton absorb blue and orange-red light, and suspended silt absorbs light fairly uniformly at all wavelengths. Aquatic plants are therefore exposed to light that is vastly different in quality than incident radiation. Moreover, light quality underwater can change rapidly depending on water depth, turbidity, algal blooms and the level and type of organic solutes present. These data suggest that aquatic plants are flexible as to their light requirements and that the pursuit of ‘full spectrum’ light is unnecessary in the freshwater aquarium.

There is in fact clear evidence in the scientific literature that freshwater plants can sustain high growth rates under simple cool-white fluorescent light. Full spectrum lighting may perhaps be useful, however, for true color rendition, and for attempts by the hobbyist to achieve flowering in ‘difficult’ aquatic plants.

Plants are sensitive to daylength. The pigment that senses light in plants is called phytochrome, and it absorbs light in the red/far-red end of the spectrum. Research has shown that some aquatic plants are short-day plants, some are long-day plants, and some are indifferent to daylength. When exposed to the ‘ wrong’ daylength, plants will continue to photosynthesize in the presence of light, and grow vegetatively, but will not complete their lifecycle and flower. This is true of both terrestrial and aquatic plants. Generally, it is safest to assume that tropical aquarium plants are short-day plants, which means they are more likely to flower with a duration of 10 to 12 hours of light per day. Plants which grow in temperate zones are generally long-day plants and are most likely to flower with 14 to 16 hours of light per day.

Mineral Nutrients

Essential mineral nutrients are conveniently separated into two categories. Nutrients used by plants in relatively large amounts are termed macronutrients. They are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), sulfur (S), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and potassium (K). Nutrients used by plants in small amounts are termed micronutrients. They are iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), molybdenum (Mo), cobalt (Co), and boron (B). Other mineral elements, such as sodium (Na), are also present in plants, but there are at present no definite roles for them and so they are not classified as essential nutrients.

Aquatic plants, unlike their terrestrial counterparts, can absorb mineral nutrients both from the water through their leaves and from the sediment through their roots. Unfortunately, it is often assumed that rooted aquatic plants can obtain all their mineral nutrient requirements through their leaves. This is, however, incorrect. As early as 1905 a researcher by the name of Raymond H. Pond stated that, ” … a soil substratum is requisite for normal growth.” and that, ” [rooted aquatic plants] make a better growth on a good loam soil, just as many land plants do.” Since then, the dramatic and consistently superior growth of plants rooted in soil compared to plants rooted in sand has been shown repeatedly for many different aquatic plant species from many different types of habitat.

While the reasons for this superior growth are not completely understood, certain facts are clear. First, submerged soils are generally lacking in oxygen. This is of benefit to rooted aquatic plants since under anoxic conditions Fe, P and N are more readily available than under aerobic conditions. Second, nutrient concentrations are higher in a fertile soil than in the overlying water. Third, there is no competition with phytoplankton for available nutrients. This latter point is important because with water based nutrition, too much fertilizer and the algae bloom, and too little and the plants stop growing.

Rooted aquatic plants are well adapted to growing in an anaerobic substrate. They are able to ‘pump’ enough oxygen to the roots so that in many cases the oxygen actually diffuses into the surrounding sediment. They can also respire anaerobically if necessary and produce lactic acid or ethanol instead of CO2 as a byproduct. The root meristems (growing tips) of some species are even inhibited in the presence of oxygen.

Aquatic plants also have requirements for certain nutrients in the overlying water. Most rooted aquatic plants need Ca, Mg, K and a carbon source in the water if they are to thrive. I say most, since some aquatic species such as Isoetes sp. and Lobelia dortmanna actually obtain even their carbon dioxide from the sediment. These plants are adapted to growing in acidic softwater lakes that have extremely low levels of DIC in the water and so absorb CO2 from the sediment through their roots.

Aquatic plants grow in an environment that is often poor in mineral nutrients. Perhaps for this reason, these plants can absorb and store large quatities of nutrients for later use. Concentrations of some mineral nutrients in plants, most notably micronutrients such as Fe and Cu, can exceed the level in the water by 1,000 to 1,000,000 times. Regular additions of mineral nutrients, particularly Fe, are therefore essential for the sustained growth of aquatic plants in the aquarium.

What soil to use in low tech plant tanks

by Robert Paul Hudson

Soil in the aquarium has become more popular again in recent years as a low tech approach that often includes the use of minimal lighting and no added C02. Diana Walstad wrote a book called Ecology of the Planted Aquarium around this method.

Soil is used to provide either macro nutrients or trace minerals, or both.  Nitrogen is the chief macro nutrient and is provided in the form of nitrate or ammonia.  Nitrogen is derived from decomposing organic matter, which in soil is a combination of leaf compost and manure. Mineral elements come from decomposed rock. Top soil contains high amounts of organic material while sub soil has higher concentrations of minerals and sand. Garden top soil often also contains sticks and bark, while subsoil is usually pretty clean. “Potting” soil is simply garden top soil without the sticks and often has fertilizer and Perlite added.  Perlite is beads of white foam like material that break up the soil allowing exchange of oxygen and also absorbs nutrients. How beneficial they are in the aquarium is uncertain, but they float in water.

Which is better sub soil or top soil?
Top soil has been avoided in many circles for fear of what large amounts of decaying organic material will do in the aquarium. There are two main areas of concern: algae control and anaerobic substrate. Soil heavy in organics may release large amounts of ammonia into the water, which certainly could cause an outbreak of algae and have an adverse affect on the fish and animal population temporarily until it is under control. A more long term problem is anaerobic areas of the substrate. As organic material breaks down and decays, the process depletes oxygen that is surrounding the material and eventually creates methane gas. Lack of oxygen creates dead spots in the substrate, plant roots in the anaerobic areas will turn black, and if the plant’s roots cannot reach outside the affected area to draw oxygen, the whole plant may die.

The Ideal Compromise

Because of the potential anaerobic problems, for many years people focused on using sub soil, “sandy loam”. Because of being very low in organic material, it was considered much safer and it primarily offered minerals. Clay was also used for the same reason. Laterite or clay additives are used as a thin layer in the bottom of the substrate to provide minerals. Later companies developed clay gravels for the same purpose: a substrate medium that was inert, provided an endless supply of oxidized minerals, and had good cation exchange capacity, (ability to absorb nutrients from the water.) Diana Walstad’s book and others put forth the benefit of having organics in the substrate in small controlled amounts and people began considering top soils again.

Ideally, the best of both worlds would be a top soil that is finely pulverized without any leafy chunks or fresh manure. It should also be free of any fertilizer additives. Twigs and bark should be screened out. They do NOT decompose in the substrate. They are just small pieces of wood. Does wood decompose in your tank? Not really.

Brands of top soil vary across the country, and even the same brand can vary in content depending on where it was processed. If you cannot get a sample from the bag before buying it, go to a nursery and describe to them the type of soil you want: a mix of top and sub soil without any chunks of leaf, bark, twigs, or manure, and they may be able to bag something just for you.

Suggestions from my friend Jane:

Perlite – while not a bad thing for houseplant soil, this stuff “lightens” heavy soils, especially those that tend to be high in clay. It provides porosity and helps to allow container plants’ roots access to air from the small spaces between particles (very important for terrestrials). For the aquarium keeper, this stuff floats, and is a royal pain in the @$$, as the little white bits will float up for months and cling to anything in the water surface.

Vermiculite – also generally a good ingredient in houseplant soil, this is a mineral that has been expanded by exposing it to great heat. While it also “lightens” soils to some extent, it also provides a lot of surface area for water to cling to, and helps absorb and retain water, while not staying thoroughly WET. It evens out the wet/dry cycle. For the aquarium keeper, this isn’t as annoying a floating component as perlite, and may help against compaction. (*aside – I’ve actually added some vermiculite to a soil underlayer as an experiment, with very good results to date).

Wetting Agents. These are surfactants. I’ve personally had a very bad experience with these when trying to pot up some very rare terrestrial plant cuttings. My bad experience was with Martha Stewart’s potting soil from KMart. Shredded sphagnum peat has an annoying habit of being difficult to wet once it gets very dry. It actually repels water to some extent. A wetting agent, or surfactant, gets the water to make contact with the other materials, and increases absorbability. But, it also increases the moisture retaining time. For me, this kept the precious cuttings too wet for too long, and caused rot. I’m not positive what the effect would be in an aquarium, but my sense is that it would not be good for the creature or plants. Plants have a very thin natural cuticle to protect them, and I’d guess this would not “play nicely” with that. Who knows what the long term effects on fish would be.

Take a look at some of the cheaper soils. Those tend to NOT have wetting agents, fertilizers or other questionable amendments. I’ve used “Hyponex” and “Jolly Gardener” but found the contents of both brands to vary widely depending on where the bag was purchased, and at what time of year. Try a small bag of a few different types. Anything you don’t use in the aquarium would probably be fine for houseplants.

Here is a VERY general assessment technique: Moisten it, play with it. When moderately moist (like a wrung out sponge), a small handful should have a bit of give when you squeeze it in your fist. Now open your hand flat. Does it crumble apart? That indicates its high in sand. Does it stay compressed, like a hard lump? High in clay. Does it look shiny or slick, or very muddy? That indicates a lot of organics.

Ideally, it will fluff back out a little bit (like when baking a cake – touch the top to see if its done – it should sping back when lightly touched) as you’ve released the compression. It should generally keep its shape, perhaps fracturing in one or two places. If you push on it, it should then break apart rather easily.

Now smell it. It should not smell moldy or astringent or bitter. It should smell pleasantly earthy, and the smell should not be noticable unless you have your nose right up to it.  Thanks Jane! 

 

Preparing the soil

You do not need to soak or wash the soil. All you will accomplish is making a mess. You can however sift out any twigs or bark. Use a wire mesh or screen strainer. If you spread out the soil and let it sit under the sun for a few hours, (12 hours), until the soil is completely dry, that will neutralize excess ammonia. Another trend currently is “mineralizing” the soil with powdered minerals. The advantage of this is the minerals in the soil would then be immediately available to the plants from day one instead of having to first bind with organic acids to become water soluble. It is a messy, time consuming process that I am not convinced is worth the effort. You can read about it here: http://gwapa.org/wordpress/articles/mineralized-soil-substrate/

Diana Walstad

Moderation is the key

The key to success is to use any kind of soil in moderation.  Anaerobic conditions are most dangerous when in large amounts. Isolated anaerobic spots are normal in any aquarium and are not too much of a concern. In a healthy, growing aquarium the release of nitrogen into the water is of no concern and does not mean an algae outbreak will be the end result unless it is a significantly large amount that the tank ecosystem cannot handle. Diana Walstad states: “I use about 1 gal of soil/sq. foot for a 1″ layer of moist soil.” She also goes on to say that soil should be covered with no more than an inch of gravel.  She explains the reason is that the deeper the soil is in the substrate, the harder it is for oxygen to reach it and the area will become severely anaerobic.  The only problem I have with that is the fact an mere inch deep covering can be easily uncovered every time you move a plant, want to re-arrange ANYTHING, or do anything to disturb the gravel. I would go a little deeper.