Longfin Corydoras

All photos courtesy of Segrest Farms www.segrest.com

 

Longfin Corydoras varieties are spectacular looking and you do not often find them for sale. Which is your favorite?

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Corydoras aeneus albino super longfin

 

Long-finned Aeneus Cory

 

Albino Long-finned Paleatus Corydoras

 

Long-finned Paleatus Corydoras

Veiltail Paleatus Corydoras

Long-finned Panda Cory

Brackish Fish of the Amazon by Neale Monks

by Neale Monks


Hoplosternum littorale, “brown hoplos”

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The brackish water fishes of Southeast Asia include such popular and widely-sold species as Monos, Scats, Archerfish and Knight Gobies. By contrast the brackish water fishes of South America are much less familiar. Or rather, while some are infrequently traded, others are simply not recognised as being brackish water fishes. This has meant that aquarists don’t always realise that an aquarium representing a South American brackish water habitat can be a very viable project.

 

Of course, the question is why you’d want to keep such an aquarium, but that’s quite an easy one to answer! Besides the various tetras and catfish South America is so famous for, it’s also home to various livebearers as well, and some of these, including Guppies, Limias and especially Mollies can do rather better in slightly brackish water than plain freshwater. This is especially true if your water supply is soft or high in nitrate, both these factors stressing livebearers maintained under freshwater conditions but for largely harmless if the water is slightly saline.

 

In fact it’s rather hard to distinguish the fish faunas of the brackish swamps and streams along the coastline of southeastern South America from equivalent habitats further north, even as far north as Florida. Indeed, some species naturally have ranges that extend along the whole Atlantic seaboard of the Americas from Brazil to the Carolinas, for example the Sleeper Goby Dormitator maculatus. In other cases fishes native to the coastal part of South America have become established outside of their natural range thanks to the aquarium industry; classic examples are things like Pike Livebearers and Brown Hoplos, both of which are now firmly entrenched in the brackish waters of Florida, among other places.

 

The Brown Hoplo is actually a good place to start. It’s a member of the Callichthyidae, the same family that contains the Corydoras catfish so popular with aquarists around the world. Compared to Corydoras it is a much bigger (6-8 inches) catfish with a more robust build and boisterous personality. It can be a bit disruptive in community tanks and does tend to uproot delicate plants, but that shouldn’t stop it being selected for large (55+ gallon) aquaria alongside any number of other fish species. In the wild it is usually found in swampy habitats including brackish water marshes along the southeastern coast of South America as well as several offshore islands including Trinidad where this catfish is a highly prized food fish. Over short periods at least, it can tolerate surprisingly high salinities, and it actually does rather better in slightly brackish water than the soft, acidic water conditions favoured by Corydoras. Not in the least shy and completely omnivorous, the Brown Hoplo would make a superb companion for large livebearers that need slightly brackish water at a specific gravity of around 1.003, for example Mollies.

 

Another good companion for Mollies and Brown Hoplos would be the Fat Sleeper Dormitator maculatus. As noted earlier, this fish has a very wide distribution. It is sometimes found in the sea, but does seem to favour low-salinity streams and marshes. If kept in plain freshwater this species tends to be sensitive to opportunistic infections, a common trait among brackish water fishes, but kept at around SG 1.003 it is extremely hardy. In the wild some adults may be anything up to a couple of feet in length, but most specimens are much smaller, and in aquaria this holds true too, the average adult being about 12 inches in length. While omnivorous their predatory capabilities should not be underrated, and very small tankmates such as Guppies would be viewed as food. But fish too large to swallow whole are ignored, and in fact Fat Sleepers make excellent aquarium fish.


Gobioides broussonnetii

 

One of the most celebrated gobies in the hobby is the Violet Goby, sometimes called the Dragon Goby. Curiously, at least two species seem to be traded under this name. North American aquarists usually get the Atlantic coastline species, Gobioides broussonnetii, but European aquarists often get the Pacific coastline species, Gobioides peruanus instead. The two species are very similar, but Gobioides peruanus has much weaker violet markings on its flanks compared to the obvious violet chevron-shaped markings that run from the head all along the flanks of Gobioides broussonnetii. In any case, care is identical, and needs to reflect the peculiar environment these fish inhabit. In the wild they are usually found on mudflats and river estuaries where they live in burrows when the tide is out and only emerge when the tide comes in. So a tank with sand for digging and a few hollow tubes they can use for shelter are important. Feeding can be problematic only insofar as these big fish (potentially 18+ inches in length) and need a lot of food. They are actually rather omnivorous and naturally consume algae, plankton, and tiny animals sifted from the sediment. So offer them a mix of algae wafers, live brine shrimp and daphnia, and wet-frozen invertebrates such as krill, bloodworms and glassworms. Neither of the Violet Gobies is fussy about salinity provided there is at least some salt in the water; anything between SG 1.003 and 1.010 will suit them just fine.


Pristella maxillaris

 

At the other end of the size range is a surprisingly addition to any roster of brackish water fishes, a tetra! The X-Ray Tetra Pristella maxillaris has been appreciated by aquarists for decades because it is so tolerant of hard, alkaline water, something most tetras despise. The reason it does so well in the “wrong” water chemistry for tetras is that this exceptional species occurs along the South American coastline too, in slightly brackish streams. While this species isn’t recommended for the average brackish water community, it’s a handy species for use in tanks where very slight salinity can be useful, as with Guppies and Limias.


Micropoecilia parae

 

Speaking of livebearers, a couple of Micropoecilia species have started to turn up at aquarium shops with some regularity. One of them, Micropoecilia picta, has been around in the hobby for years, though tends to get traded at fish clubs and auctions rather than through retailers. It has sometimes been known as the Swamp Guppy and is native to Guyana, Brazil and offshore islands including Trinidad. The other species, Micropoecilia parae, comes from Guyana and Brazil and used to be rare in the hobby, but the so-called “Red Melanzona” in particular is now available through the better retailers. Both species are extremely variable and occur in numerous colour morphs. The Swamp Guppy is somewhat like a Guppy in shape, though smaller, and the males have bright patches of colour on their dorsal and tail fins. The Red Melanzona is similar in shape and size but males have longitudinal red and black markings on the flanks and tail fins. In both cases the females are plain greenish-silver. Maintenance of both species is much like that of Guppies, in other words, they do best in clean, spacious tanks with lots of plants. Also like Guppies, they need to be kept in groups where females outnumber males by at least two to one, otherwise aggression can be a problem. Water chemistry is a matter of some debate, and both species do naturally occur in plain freshwater as well as brackish water habitats, but under aquarium conditions slightly brackish water does seem to result in consistently better health and more frequent breeding. The exact salinity doesn’t matter much, and anything from SG 1.002 to 1.005 is acceptable.

 

And finally, what about catfish for the South American brackish water community? Well, there are a few suckermouth catfish that naturally inhabit slightly brackish water, including Hypostomus ventromaculatus and Hypostomus watwata, but these catfish aren’t traded much, if at all. At least one other species, Hypostomus plecostomus, has become established in slightly brackish lagoons and canals along the Florida coastline, and it certainly can tolerate low-end brackish conditions in aquaria, up to around SG 1.002-1.003, without coming to any harm. In fact the two catfish families most strongly associated with brackish water habitats in South America are the Aspredinidae (the Banjo Catfishes) and the Ariidae (the Sea Catfishes).

 

Of the Banjo Cats, it’s the bigger species like Aspredo aspredo and Platystacus cotylephorus that migrate between fresh and brackish water, but these are only occasionally traded. Platystacus cotylephorus for example gets to 12 inches in length and has a strongly flattened body that allows it to hide in the sand much like a flatfish or flounder. After mating the females carry the eggs around attached to their underbellies; supposedly this is because the fish mate in brackish water but the fry need to be released in freshwater. Salinity isn’t a key issue with these catfish and they can do well in both hard freshwater and moderately brackish water conditions to about SG 1.010. These catfish feed mostly on worms and insect larvae, and would make great companions for Mollies and other medium-sized livebearers.


Sciades seemanni

 

The Colombian Shark Catfish Sciades seemanni is by far the most regularly traded brackish water catfish from South America. It has a large distribution in the wild, from Mexico as far south as Peru. Adult length in captivity is typically 12-15 inches, but though they are well-armed predators, they are also very peaceful schooling fish. In fact they do best kept in groups of at least three specimens alongside peaceful tankmates of similar size. Juveniles may be kept in freshwater for many weeks, even months, without harm, but contrary to what some retailers suggest, these catfish cannot be kept in freshwater indefinitely. Once they get to about 3-4 inches in length they should be kept in brackish water that has a specific gravity of at least 1.003, and adults will need at least 1.010 to remain in good health (adults also do very well in marine tanks).

 

So that rounds up this quick look at the brackish water fishes of South America. While some are of interest as additions to general brackish water communities alongside Southeast Asian and African species, as is certainly the case with the Colombian Shark Catfish, others could play a useful role in livebearer communities where only slight salinity would be needed.

 

Apple Snail Anatomy

Apple Snail anatomy

Male

 

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The overview picture above is a simplified version of the apple snail anatomy. Also keep in mind that there are small differences between the different apple snail genera. This should not be a problem as these differences are relatively small.

movies Movies (MPEG1):
Travel through snail slices (Pomacea canaliculata ) (296kb)

Note that the anatomy of apple snails can not be applied on all other snail families. Close relatives as the Viviparidae snails do have a somewhat similar anatomy, with as main difference the absence of a lung in those snails, but land snails for example differ quite a lot.
Important to realize as well is that the snail’s body is coiled in the shell. This is not visible in the picture above, to keep the whole picture easier to understand. In the picture below however, one can see how the snail organs are arranged in the coiled body.

Snail body
The snail body, taken out of the shell (Pomacea diffusa).
Snail body
Note: this animal was not killed especially to make this picture.
Female snail:

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Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License .

http://www.applesnail.net

 

 

Aqua-Rooter: when water changes clog a drain

By Joshua Wiegert

If you’ve got an aquarium anywhere near a kitchen sink, sooner or later you’re going to manage to do the one, unspeakable deed.  You’re going to manage to get gravel into the garbage disposal and break it.  I think every aquarist with a garbage disposal has done this, and it can be a costly visit from a plumber.  One aquarist I know claims he’s had to move because of gravel clogging the garbage disposal – so let’s look at a way to fix this ourselves, easily and cheaply.

First and foremost, let’s look at how a garbage disposal works.  They’re all pretty much the same.  Inside of it are a couple of little spinny blade thingies (that’s what they’re actually called, its a very technical term) that chop up the food and occasional fish.  They sit on a large disk called a flywheel, which also spins.  Nine times out nine, this is what gets jammed up – the flywheel.

The garbage disposal mixes electricity and water, and as such, must be protected by a GFI circuit.  This circuit also blows if you try to run the garbage disposal for too long, particularly if its jammed.  So, for the first step in fixing the garbage disposal, flick the switch for about a second, and then turn it off.  If it hums, you can skip the next step.  Otherwise, look around on the bottom.  Somewhere, there’s a little red button.  This has to be pressed back in – its just the like the “fault” button on your hair drier.  While trying the disposal, you may cause the GFI to “pop” again – if you turn it on and it doesn’t hum, try that switch again.

Next, we have to remove the clog.  Do not stick your hands, fingers, or any other body part into the garbage disposal.  Half of you are probably shaking your heads and saying, “I’m not an idiot – its off, I checked the switch, and I’m not gonna turn it on.”  I don’t care if you’ve cut the power to your entire neighborhood.  Don’t stick your fingers down there.  The garbage disposal was spinning when it encountered whatever grain of gravel jammed it.  This brought it to a haulting stop.  There is a lot of tension on it, and if you remove the jam, the garbage disposal can spin, sometimes a lot.  I rather like being able to count to ten without unzipping anything, so I prefer to not risk my fingers.

Instead, we’re going to use two very handy aquarium tools to unclog the disposal.  The first of these is a Python. Hook the python up to the whatever sink has the best pressure – possibly an outside hose.  Put the gravel vacuum down the disposal and let it rip, full blast. Move it around as much as possible.  Flip the switch – pull the Python out first! – and see if you haven’t fixed it just by doing this.  (If you don’t own a Python, kudos.  They waste of a lot of water to save you a little walking.  Fill a bucket with water, and dump it quickly down the drain a few times).

If that hasn’t gotten it, then we need to try to remove the grains of gravel, rather than just flushing them.  Get out your wet/dry shop vac, and vacuum out the garbage disposal as much as possible.  If you don’t have one, get one.  They’re under $50 and incredibly useful when you spill a lot of water, or are moving an aquarium (vacuum out those last dregs of water and gravel), or even for vacuuming up some messes (ever drop a bowl of cereal?  Broken glass, soggy cereal and milk – very easy to clean with a shop vac).  Make sure you’ve removed the HEPA filter from inside, as you’ll be vacuuming wet materiel.  The water you previously flushed down should have removed any of the gunk, so hopefully you’ll just remove the gravel and some water.  This almost always works.

If its still stuck, we need a very technical piece of plumbing equipment known as a “broom.”  Ideally, one with a wooden handle, but the plastic or metal ones will work.  If you gently bend the rubber flanges of the garbage disposal up, you can see the metal “teeth” on it (try a flashlight if you can’t see them).  Shove the broom handle down and behind one of these teeth.  Use it to turn the flywheel clockwise.  It can be a little tricky getting it to “catch,” but once it does, the wheel will turn.

Now, you’ve knocked the little grain of gravel out of place.  If you turn on the disposal, the whole thing will turn – for about eight seconds.  Then it’ll catch that same $(#)#@ grain of gravel, and jam again.  So, ideally, shove the end of the shop vac back down there and pull out that grain.  Or, run the water for a few minutes.

At this point, you should be good to go.  If its still not running, you’ve got a serious clog on it and may need to either remove and dismantle the garbage disposal (if you know how to do that, why’d you read this?) or call the plumber.

 

Meet Mark Duffill

Mark Duffill was born in 1972, and his trade was originally that of a fully qualified electrician, although, he has had an interest in fish from a very young age. He got his first fish when he was 6 years old and was ‘hooked’ immediately. As soon as he was old enough he became a junior member of the local fish keeping club that his parents ran and got the bug for showing fish and winning prizes! Eventually he became a valued committee member of the club and eventually was club secretary.

This aside he also advanced to become an A-class judge for the North East Federation of Aquarist Societies. The hobby of fish keeping took a back seat for a while due to work commitments, however unfortunately his career as an electrician ended in 1999 when he was diagnosed with fibromyalgia and spondylosis in the spine. Since then he channelled his time, energy and passion for fish to keeping, breeding or catching and collecting them.

Mark works primarily with Loaches, Rasboras and other Asian species, although he has periodically diverted his attention to other fish including African Rift Cichlids, Characins, Corydoras, Discus, Livebearers of all descriptions and even at one point had nothing but Rainbow fishes, but no matter what he has kept he was always drawn back to Loaches and Rasboras. Mark owns and gives time to several websites and forums including Northeast Aquatics, Seriously Fish and Rasboras.com to name just a few, more recently he began working alongside Mr David Marshall who is owner and editor of The Aquarium Gazette, Mark looks after the website and contributes articles and photos to the publication.

In 2009, Mark became the founder of the International Loach Association, formerly Loach Association of Great Britain. Mark has also had his articles published in several magazines around the world and had them translated into numerous languages and has been invited to travel to clubs within the UK and now around the world to give presentations on Loaches.

Mark’s passion for Loaches has seen him successfully spawn numerous species, which for some time Loaches were considered unbreedable but thanks to Mark and people like him, this myth has been dispelled. Species include Yasuhikotakia sidthimunki, Sewellia, and Acanthocobitis zonalternans, also firsts such as Botia kubotai, Botia histrionica, Acanthopsoides species and most recently a major breakthrough with the first recorded spawning of Yasuhikotakia splendida.

Mark has written two quick reference books on Loach species which can be purchased from his web site:

http://www.loachassociation.com/

Jaguar Loach


©Photograph by Mark Duffill

by Mark Duffill

Yasuhikotakia splendida (Roberts, 1995)

Scientific name: Yasuhikotakia splendida

Common name: Jaguar Loach

Size: Up to 100mm standard length

Distribution: Mekong basin, Laos

Comments:

Rarely imported, Y. splendida is a highly aggressive and territorial species, and for this reason does best in a species tank, with larger more robust tank mates or mixed with other aggressive loach species. It is a riverine species that inhabits clear streams with a medium to high flow and does seem to like good flow levels in aquaria. High levels of oxygenation are a massive requirement as is water quality so good filtration is needed and it does best with warmer temperatures from 77° to 85°f and a pH of 6.0 to 8.0

These fish are excellent and persistent diggers so do best with a fine sand substrate, and care should be taken when initially laying out the aquaria to make sure the rock structure can’t be collapsed due to the digging activity. Lots of hiding places are a good idea as is breaking the fishes line of sight to help lessen aggressive activity. Planting is probably best kept to a minimum or use Java fern tied to wood or wedged in rock work as they have been reported to nibble plants.

There is one record of Y. splendida having spawned in aquaria. High activity levels and raised volume of clicking was noted beforehand but no spawning activity was seen. Eggs were found as were some small fry.