Monthly Archives: March 2011

Amano Shrimp – The Little Cleaners that Could

  By FishFAQs | March 31, 2011 - 10:02 pm | Fish and Invertebrates
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Amano Shrimp are Peaceful, Efficient Algae Eaters

By Aaron Guzman
There are numerous colorful and beautiful varieties of freshwater shrimp available in the hobby, but there is one species that stands alone for its industrious behavior. Caridina multidentata, also commonly known as the Amano Shrimp, is one of the most effective algae eating animals that can be kept in the freshwater aquarium.
Some Background Information on Amano Shrimp
In 2006, the Amano Shrimp was officially renamed from Caridina japonica to Caridina multidentata. Caridina japonica was originally described by De Man in 1892. However, a study conducted by the National University of Singapore, the University of the Ryukyus and the National Institute for Environmental Studies have shown that the species described by De Man is in actuality the same species that was described by William Stimpson in 1860: Caridina multidentata. This study appears in the Journal of Crustacean Biology.
Caridina multidentata has numerous names, including Amano Shrimp, Yamato Shrimp, Japanese Swamp Shrimp, Algae Shrimp, and Yamato numa-ebi (meaning Yamato Swamp Shrimp in Japanese). All of these names refer to the same hard-working algae-eating shrimp hailing from several regions of Japan, including the Yamato Swamps and the island of Kyushu, as well as parts of Korea and Thailand.
The Amano Shrimp are a relatively small shrimp, reaching a maximum size of 2 inches (5 centimeters). They are transparent save for the occasional brown, green, or ruddy red colorations that may form. The color of the shrimp will largely depend on diet. They possess a stripe that runs from the head to the tail, and the tail usually possesses several noticeable dots. They are a hardy species, capable of adjusting to a wide range of water conditions. However, breeding them poses its challenges, as the Amano Shrimp require brackish conditions.
These algae shrimp are not an aggressive species, though they are known to be very eager eaters and may out-compete other shrimp or sedentary and shy tankmates. Choose tankmates wisely for this little shrimp, because many fish enjoy the taste of shrimp, and any fish with a large enough mouth will most likely make a snack out of Caridina multidentata. Peaceful, like-minded tankmates should be housed with Amano Shrimp, and plenty of hiding spots should be provided. This is especially necessary when Amano Shrimp go through the molting process. They are extremely vulnerable during this time, and any stress can be detrimental.
The average lifespan of Caridina multidentata is 2-3 years.

Caridina multidentata Moulting

Uses for Amano Shrimp in the Freshwater Aquarium
While he was not the first to discover them, Takashi Amano was the first to popularize Caradina multidentata in the hobby for their usefulness in the freshwater aquarium. Living up to their common name, Algae Shrimp excel at algae removal. They are highly valued among planted aquarium enthusiasts for their willingness to devour various forms of algae, including the ever-despised hair algae. These little shrimp will clean plants, rocks, ornaments, and even go so far as to sift through gravel or sand.
There are several types of algae that even the Amano Shrimp will avoid or simply overlook in favor of better foods. The thick, coarse algae that builds up on aquarium glass will primarily be ignored by Amano Shrimp. This algae is a dark green and usually builds up over time, growing faster and denser with greater light exposure and the presence of excess nutrients in the water. Very few aquarium residents feed on this type of algae, and it will be the responsibility of the aquarist to remove it. The best method for removal is a razor blade or scraper of some sort.
Another form of tough to tackle algae is black beard algae. This algae tends to grow in small blackish tufts along the leaves of plants or on the substrate. While Amano Shrimp will pick at this algae and feed upon it to an extent, they will nearly always consume other foods instead. It is best to manually remove this type of algae, as well as reducing light and nutrients to further control algae growth.
Amano Shrimp are also efficient scavengers and bottom feeders. Night and day they will search for food, pulling leftovers out from between rocks and off the substrate. They make a great addition to clean-up crews.
General Care of Amano Shrimp
The Amano Shrimp is easy to care for compared to many other shrimps in the hobby. Being swamp shrimp, they are hardy and capable of adapting to various water conditions. It is important to avoid extremes in any water parameters, and to keep those parameters stable.
Generally speaking, Amano shrimp should be kept in an aquarium with a stable pH between 6.5-8.0, and a temperature between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit (21-27 degrees Celsius). As with all freshwater invertebrates, frequent partial water changes are critical for good health.
Amano shrimp are true omnivores and will accept nearly any food offered to them. Other than algae, Caridina multidentata should be offered suitable vegetable matter such as algae wafers, spirulina, and even zucchini. High quality packaged food intended for invertebrates or bottom feeders works as a good staple or supplement food. Live foods such as tubifex/bloodworms and blackworms will be greedily eaten. Newly hatched brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms, and greenwater are all excellent foods for newly hatched and small algae shrimp.
While not typical, it has been reported that Amano Shrimp will eat certain plants. These are usually delicate, fragile plants such as Riccia, Java Moss, and Glossostigma. Observe these shrimp carefully in planted aquariums and keep them well fed.
While a single specimen, or even a small group of algae shrimp can usually survive by only eating algae in the aquarium, supplementing their diet with nutritious food will help them grow to their full potential, develop healthy coloration, as well as condition them for possible breeding.

Amano shrimp are active, attractive, and useful members in a community aquarium or planted aquarium. Takashi Amano has advocated their use in the freshwater aquarium for many years now, and anyone serious about algae control and planted aquaria should take the time to research and experiment with these industrious little algae shrimp.

Caridina multidentata is a Beautiful and Industrious Shrimp

Photo Sources (top to bottom): Richardfabi, RoccosWelt, BS Thurner Hof
Sources:
Cai Y.; Shokita S.; Satake, K. On the species of Japanese atyid shrimps (Decapoda: Caridea) described by William Stimpson (1860). Journal of Crustacean Biology, 26(3); 392-419, 2006.
Stover, Ryan. Everything About Caridina japonica. The Japanese Suiso Aquarium Network. Web. 30 March 2011.

Breeding Crystal Shrimp

  By robert | March 31, 2011 - 1:01 am | Fish and Invertebrates
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by William Skurdahl      www.theshrimptank.com

Crystal Shrimp (Caridina cf. Cantonensis) are currently one of the most popular species of dwarf shrimp. Over the years breeders have created multiple strains possessing a variety of colors and patterns. Some of the morphs include Golden Crystal, King Kong, Red Wine, Blue Bolt, and Green Hulk.

Crystal Shrimp have been selectively bred with the general goal being to increase both the amount and intensity of the white coloration. This selective breeding has reduced the genetic diversity of the population and resulted in shrimp more sensitive to changes in their environment than some other species.

The most important components of successful breeding are soft and acidic water, good filtration, plenty of food for the young, and a predator-free environment.

Crystal Shrimp breed most readily in soft, acidic water. My tap water is extremely hard and alkaline (TDS around 600 and pH close to 8.0) so I use Aquasoil and reverse osmosis water to keep the pH at around 6.5 and TDS under 100. In the past when my pH has gotten above 7.0, breeding ceased and the population slowly declined. If Aquasoil and reverse osmosis water is not sufficient in lowering your pH you can try using peat moss, leaves, or driftwood, which contain tannic acid. Muric acid (HCL) can also be added to reduce the pH although only a very small amount is needed; I typically use around 4-6mL per 50 gallons of RO water.

 Good filtration and clean water is vital for breeding and survival so choosing the correct filter is very important. Canister and hang-on-back (HOB) filters work very well but require a pre-filter to prevent the newborn shrimp from being sucked into the filter. I use air-driven sponge filters on my tanks and prefer them as they are cheaper and completely safe for young shrimp; the only downside is that they tend to be louder than either canister or HOB filters.

To successfully raise young Crystal Shrimp you must make sure they have plenty of food. The preferred food for all shrimp is biofilm. Adding leaf litter to the tank helps to provide extra surface area and nutrients for the biofilm to grow. If you prefer having a more organized looking tank, you can use a food that is specially made for newborn shrimp such as Mosura BioPlus. An easy way to check that your newborn shrimp are eating enough is by looking at their digestive track, which is usually visible through their shell. If the contents of the entire track are visible then you can be sure they are getting plenty to eat.

 Another important component to your breeding is ensuring that you have a predator-free environment. The newborns are very small when they hatch and can easily be eaten by nearly any type of fish. I recommend keeping them in a fish-free tank to prevent predation and maximize the survival of the young. If you must keep them with fish, try smaller, less aggressive fish such as tetras or guppies and provide lots of plant cover for the young to hide in.

Breeding this species of shrimp can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience for the prepared breeder. By taking the necessary steps to ensure that you have provided your shrimp with the proper water, filtration, nourishment, and environment you can look forward to a successful breeding experience.

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Cryptocoryne parva

  By robert | March 26, 2011 - 8:06 am | Aquarium Plants
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by Robert Paul Hudson

Cryptocoryne parva

Cryptocoryne parva

This is the smallest known Cryptocoryne specie, reaching a height of only two or three inches, and is imported from Sri Lanka or cultivated by commercial growers around the world. It is more light demanding than most other species of its genus, and is a slow grower. Elevated light levels, and adequate carbon dioxide and nutrients in the substrate will achieve much better results, but even then growth is relatively slow. While the plant is often used in the foreground, it is not exactly a carpet plant. If one expects the plant to cover a large area, it is best to start with as many plants as possible and space them apart across the desired area. Under the best possible conditions and the appropriate number of starter plants, one should expect it to take at least a year for the plants to carpet the desired area. After the initial grow out, the growth rate will increase to some extent. It is important at that time to keep the substrate fertile. If the plant is overshadowed by other plants, it may drop leaves or stop growing. In needs to be planted in an area that receives direct overhead light.

The tiny leaves grow from a rhizome that can range in size from barely a pinhead to several inches. When the plant is purchased potted, it usually has been grown with several small plants and rhizomes fused together. It may be planted in the aquarium as is for a very attractive and bushy looking plant, or divided up into several small plants that are spaced apart in rows. This is adventitious if your goal is to ultimately have a carpet of these plants, but a great deal of patience would be required. As a parva “bush” the plant will have a stronger visual impact without a long wait for it to grow in. The plant is also highly suitable for use in nano size aquariums. As long as you have the patience, and provide adequate growing conditions and a stable environment, then it is a charming and unproblematic addition to any aquascape.

COLLECTING BOTIA HISTRIONICA IN BURMA

  By robert | March 25, 2011 - 10:53 pm | Gone Wild
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Text and Photos by Stan Sung

 

 There are certain days spent collecting in the field that stand out, heads above the other days. These are the times when the environment, scenery, mood, company, and fishing efforts collide in a “perfect storm”. I use the term “perfect storm” in a positive light – its one of those rare occasions in which everything lines up … perfectly.

 

A few stand – out days would include collecting Tomocichla asfraci, Astathoheros rhytisma and Cryptoheros nanoluteus all on a sun- drenched, golden afternoon in the jungles of Panama. Another perfect day was spent exploring a black water swamp in Malaysia. Scooping gem – like Bettas and Puntius pentazona from the primeval, coffee – black waters in the steamy Asian Jungles – that was another stand out day for sure. I have been fortunate to have too many of these memories to count. On this occasion I will take you to another one of my “perfect storm” days …..

 BAGAN, MYANMAR – We glided out on the wide banks of the Irrawaddy River – known as the “Road to Mandalay”. This immense river is the life – blood connecting the major cities of Yangon (formerly Rangoon) and Mandalay and other cities and villages in the interior. In Bagan, time has appeared to have frozen somewhere in the 1800’s. There are small villages made of dried reeds. Women and children sitting along the river bank – their faces painted a cheerful – yellow and white with Thanaka Powder. The grandmas are usually seen smoking giant cheroots – a Burmese Cigar about the size of a medium ear of corn. Brahma Bulls are employed to work the fields and pull brightly – painted oxcarts. Majestic and exotic pagodas line the horizon; sometimes the gilded spires at the top will glint, golden in the sun. Amazing, breathtaking scenery took me centuries back in time.

 BOTIAS

 

I have been to this magical corner of the world on several different expeditions. On this particular day – we moored our boat along the muddy banks of the Irrawaddy River. A small feeder stream ran through the dense forest and meandered its way to the river proper. We met several young fisherman and explained to them that our interest was to collect small, native fishes. Understanding what we were after, the crew of young men began to assemble a rectangular – shaped net at the mouth of the stream. We walked upstream a bit and began to construct a “mud dam” of sorts. Eventually the stream began to fill – out behind our makeshift dam … becoming a large “pond” rather quickly. Once we were content on how large the backed – up water had swelled, we at once tore down the walls of the dam with our hands. We quickly flung the mud aside as the water began to rush out from upstream. Our temporary pond drained out in a furious torrent – right into the awaiting, rectangular net. As the last of the backed – up stream trickled into the net – we peered in and picked out our awaiting treasures.

 

Botia histrionica greying out

My interest in recent years has been loaches. I have traveled all over Asia, Northern Africa, and Turkey in my quest for this group of interesting fishes. I will never forget the first, wild Botia histrionica that we pulled from the net that day. They were young, smallish fish of about two – inches. At this size, the young are zebra striped in jet-black on a pearlescent, golden base color. These wild fishes were strikingly beautiful. Botia histrionica is usually sold under the trade name Burmese Zebra Loach. This is a fairly peaceful, widely obtainable loach perfectly suited to the home aquarium. They are gregarious species that is a joy to keep. As these fish mature their pattern lightens and becomes less distinct. Curiously, in times of aggression these and some other Botias “grey – out” in which the pattern and color washes out – almost completely.

 CONCLUSION

Gagata gawshuah

 Well, all days – no matter how magnificent come to an end. That incredible day in Bagan was made even more incredible when, in addition to the beautiful loaches captured, we also sampled some other wonderful, Burmese fishes. Strange and odd gobies, eels and pufferfish all came up within out nets. That evening we headed back to our base – gliding past the awesome, ancient pagodas – with several containers of interesting, exotic fishes.

Mastacembelus alboguttatus

More information about Botia histrionica:

http://www.loaches.com/species-index/botia-histronica

http://www.loaches.com/articles/botia-histrionica-development-of-markings-during-growth

http://www.seriouslyfish.com/profile.php?genus=Botia&species=histrionica&id=1365

Kissing Gourami: Helostoma temmincki

  By robert | March 25, 2011 - 7:40 am | Fish and Invertebrates
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 by staff

Kissing Gourami are a large tropical species which display an unusual kissing behaviour which makes them an interesting addition to the freshwater aquarium.

Gourami are native to Thailand and south-east Asia, where they are commonly farmed to be used for food. Wild Gouramis are usually a green shade, while the variety sold in pet-shops has a pearly pink tone.  Gouramis have a rounded body shape and an unusually shaped mouth, with thick lips and fine teeth. The species are keen algae eaters and suck algae from the glass and decorations in the aquarium, which is how they came to be given the name “Kissing” Gourami.

Both the males and females of the species display the afore mentioned “kissing”. Scientists are not sure why this species does this, but it is theorised that it is a type of dominance ritual as it is normally observed in younger specimens.

Although Kissing Gourami are a hardy species, they are not normally recommended for those trying fish-keeping for the first time. This is because, although the fish you buy in the pet-shop may be fairly small, this species can grow up to 30cm in ideal conditions, and need to be kept in a large sized aquarium with a capacity of 30 gallons or more. In addition to their potentially large size, Kissing Gourami can be aggressive towards their tank-mates and it is recommended that they are only mixed with species of a similar size. Very small fish species such as the Neon Tetra, and recently hatched fry, will not last long in a tank with a large Gourami, as they are predatory and enjoy a little snack!

Wild Kissing Gourami are found in slow-moving, marshy waters which are abundant with vegetation and to successfully keep the species, your tank must mimic this environment as closely as possible. Like several other species which live in water with low oxygen levels, Kissing Gourami  are able to gulp air from the water surface due to the presence of the labyrinth organ. This organ is easily damaged by significant difference between room temperature and the water temperature in the tank, and care should be taken to maintain a temperature between 22 – 28°C.  Significant water movement which causes a current should also be avoided as it can have a negative effect on the Gourami. It should be noted that, although Kissing Gourami can survive in water with low oxygen levels, like any other species, the tank water should be changed regularly to prevent a build up of toxins which can cause damage to the fish.

Gouramis eats both animal and plant material, since they are omnivores. Feed a diet of quality flake food, supplemented with brine shrimp, blood worm and glass worm. Gourami’s will also nibble at any aquarium plants used in the tank, and use their specialised mouths to scrape at algae growths on the tank glass. It can be beneficial to stop cleaning the aquarium back-glass to allow the Gourami’s to feed on it.

My 10 gallon Cory pygmaeus breeding: all thanks to bad weather!

  By robert | March 20, 2011 - 8:09 pm | Fish and Invertebrates
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by AB Bloggin member Brandon Olson

 

It was time to make room for new additions to my fish family, so I moved some tetras into a 2.5 gallon tank and freed up my main planted 10 gallon for a Honey Gourami and a few Pygmy Corydoras. Four small Corries made for a pitiful looking, inactive school-o-cats, so I went and picked up four more and a bag of Hikari sinking wafers. Increased numbers revealed the true personality of this little fish and now they never stay still and school incredibly tight.

 

I had seen eggs before: usually after a water-change, but the adults had always eaten them. Also I started to notice them acting like they were getting ready to spawn- rubbing each other and cleaning plants- just before a snow storm outdoors. That’s when it hit me- RAIN triggers catfish to eat and spawn. I’m always fearful of power outages, so I try to do water changes before there’s a chance of an outage. This January was very snowy, so I started doing large water changes before a storm was to hit and fed tons of wafers.

 

banded stage fry

It worked almost every time with the eggs being deposited mostly on the front glass and foreground plants. I used my headlamp late at night and soon found a few tiny white wigglers that would follow the dirty water worms up the glass and appeared to be feeding. This was the hard part: feeding micro fry and trying to keep them from being eaten. I’m very lucky my tanks aren’t all sterile and clean because I had no special fry foods prepared and the fry would just have to eat what was in there.

 

speckled baby

To give the babies a good place to hide during the day and trap food muck for them, I lined up some lava rocks intended for the barbecue along the front glass. Now they had only to flee a matter of inches to safety and all the micro worms also retreated down the front glass to the Cory caves. I stirred up some muck from the filter and soon the white wriggles took on their banded brown & black color. At this point the adults were still eating plenty of eggs which I somewhat curbed by feeding piles of wafers. Within a month I had about four mini-adults ready to join the pygmy school. Not very impressive hatch survival numbers but now that I understand what needs to be met to get them spawning I’m sure it will be easier in the future. This 10g is now solely dedicated to C. pygmeaus and plants leaving space for when I upgrade my filter and dive into INVERTs!

 

young adult

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Killis of Spain Pt. 3 – Aphanius baeticus

  By Matt Ford | March 20, 2011 - 6:27 pm | Fish and Invertebrates
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By Matt Ford

Adult male specimen from the Río de la Vega, Andalucía, Spain. © Matt Ford

The ‘fartet’, Aphanius iberus (Valenciennes, 1846), was considered the only Spanish representative of the genus for over 150 years. However, in an example of how taxonomy has been increasingly influenced by modern phylogenetic techniques in recent years, studies published around the turn of the century revealed the populations found along the country’s Atlantic coastline to be genetically different to Mediterranean ones.

Young adult female from the Río de la Vega. © Matt Ford

This information was subsequently analysed alongside morphometric data then used to characterise these populations, resulting in the erection of a new species name for the Atlantic-coast fish. Aphanius baeticus (Doadrio, Carmen and Fernández-Delgado, 2002), commonly-referred to as ‘salinete’ in Spain, probably diverged from its Mediterranean sister when the Straits of Gibralatar opened around 5 million years ago but the two retain many similarities and are now threatened by the same anthropogenic factors.

Flank patterning comparison of male A. baeticus (left) vs. A. iberus showing development of thin bars in the former. © Matt Ford

Body patterning appears near-identical at first glance with males sharing the same basic arrangement of vertical stripes concentrated in the rear portion of the body and females irregular dark markings on a pale background. However, according to the description, the bars in males are relatively thicker in A. baeticus than A. iberus, and the dark markings in females few and relatively large in A. baeticus, numerous and relatively small in A. iberus. Having seen examples from several localities of both species these characters seem to hold true for females, less so males as some individuals of A. baeticus possess similarly thin bars to A. iberus, in some cases even more so.

Flank patterning comparison of female A. baeticus (left) vs. A. iberus. © Matt Ford

There are minor morphological differences too. A. baeticus possesses 9-11 (usually 10) branched anal fin rays and 8-9 (usually 8 ) branched dorsal fin rays vs. 8-9 branched anal fin rays and 8-9 (sometimes 10) branched dorsal fin rays in A. iberus. A. baeticus also lacks the yellow pigmentation seen in the ventral and anal fins of some A. iberus populations. Body shape is perhaps the most useful identifying character because A. baeticus is the more elongate, deep-bodied fish and has a noticeably shorter, more rounded snout than A. iberus. At any rate when the species are viewed side-by-side the distinction is normally clear.

Reproductive biology is basically identical with A. baeticus exhibiting the same suite of adaptations to fluctuating environments discussed for A. iberus in the previous post. Diet is also much the same. However while the remaining populations of A. iberus tend to exist in brackish lagoons, A. baeticus mostly inhabits small, first-order streams. Some of these are temporal and subject to annual drying events with the fish surviving in remnant pools for several months each year, while water chemistry varies from pure freshwater to hypersaline depending on locality.

The Río de la Vega is full of water and flows quite swiftly during autumn, winter and spring. © Matt Ford

Distribution comprises the lower Río Guadalquivir basin plus a disjunct series of localities along Spain’s Atlantic coastline as far as the town of Tarifa on the Straits of Gibraltar. There are also unconfirmed reports of a population existing on Gibraltar itself but little information is available. This species has penetrated the aquarium hobby to an even lesser extent than A. iberus, presumably as a result of relatively reduced international tourism across its range plus its protected status.

Some populations have already been destroyed and of the nine remaining only a couple are pristine, the main problem being introduction of the alien competitors Fundulus heteroclitus and Gambusia holbrooki; at localities where it occurs alongside one of these A. baeticus shows marked reductions in population density. It’s classified as ‘Endangered’ by the IUCN and included in the Spanish National Catalogue of Endangered Species.

In summer the Río de la Vega usually dries up to leave a series of small pools. © Matt Ford

Unfortunately in most cases habitat management is equally intensive as for the majority of extant A. iberus populations i.e. non-existent. For example, the Río de la Vega in Andalucía is one of the few places where A. baeticus still comprises part of a natural fish species assemblage (though the invasive red swamp crayfish, Procambarus clarkii (Girard, 1852), is present). It’s a seasonal stream running alongside the aforementioned town of Tarifa and dries to a series of small pools on a more-or-less annual basis. The killis are restricted to a short freshwater section of several hundred metres which they share with the endangered loach Cobitis paludica (de Buen, 1930), also endemic to Spain, plus a selection of marine fishes such as Atherina and Liza spp., smaller specimens of which often become trapped in the pools when the stream dries.

Aphanius were also present in this pool but we were unable to progress further upstream due to the illegally-erected fence. © Matt Ford

Despite the relatively intact state of the habitat access isn’t restricted in any way and there’s no signage to suggest that it houses endangered or protected species. When the bed is dry horses are allowed to drink from/defecate/walk into the pools and it’s used as a thoroughfare for locals with motorbikes since it provides a short-cut into town. A farmer has been allowed to fence the stream off which is not only illegal but prevents passage; therefore we still don’t know how far upstream the fish can be found. The section with the highest density of Aphanius is now bordered on one side by a small industrial estate and lower down threatens to be encroached by the town itself. The IUCN note that this species may be extinct within the next decade and sadly this appears to be born out by the facts gleaned from this and other localities unless something drastic happens.

Next time we’ll look at Valencia hispanica (Valenciennes, 1846); arguably the most beautiful representative of Spain’s endemic fish fauna and of even more precarious conservation status than the two Aphanius species, after which I pledge to contribute a little more happiness to this blog!

Halocaridina rubra: The Hawaiian red volcano shrimp

  By robert | March 20, 2011 - 4:50 pm | Fish and Invertebrates
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by Robert Paul Hudson

 

If you go into a pet store on the Hawaiian Islands, you may find tiny bright red shrimp being sold as feeder shrimp.  Many hobbyists are discovering that these little feeder shrimp are fascinating to observe in their own aquarium.

 

Red volcano shrimp are endemic to a unique environment on the Hawaiian Islands called anchialine pools. These are still water pools in larva rock craters near the coast, but disconnected from the sea and fed by the subterranean water table within the lava rock base. These pools contain no vegetation other than algae and no fish. The water is affected by tides and ranges in salinity from less than 2% to over 33% .

 

These shrimp are tiny- usually no more than half an inch in length, which makes them difficult to keep with any fish without being eaten. They are highly adaptable to water conditions, and while most people keep them in brackish water, they will adapt to pure freshwater with moderate to high alkalinity.  Plants would not be part of their natural environment.

Diet

The shrimp commonly graze on algae and cyanobacteria that forms a crust on the lava rock but are also equipped to filter feed by fanning the water into their mouth to catch floating particulates, and they have been observed feeding on insect carrion. In the aquarium they will take flake food and algae wafers and even freeze dried fish food.  Feeding antics are quite entertaining to watch. When food falls to the bottom and startles the shrimp, they immediately swim up to the water surface and then back to the bottom, and sets off a chain reaction with any other shrimp in close proximity.

Reproduction

In the anchialine pools Halocaridina spend part of their time in deep, dark, subterranean crevices, and in shallow brightly lit areas exposed to the water surface. Spawning occurs in the subterranean areas. The hatched larva swim up toward the light which triggers the four stage larva development.  These shrimp will readily reproduce in the aquarium and the larva will feed on liquid fry food.

Aquarium set up

A ten or twenty gallon aquarium is a good size aquarium for a nice size colony of these little red gems. Stack lava rock along the back of the aquarium to provide plenty of hiding places, places to spawn and explore. I use crushed coral gravel as a substrate, but crushed lava rock would be another alternative. For a brackish environment, keep the salinity around 12 ppt (about 1.008 sg) to 23 ppt (about 1.016 sg).

A simple sponge filter is really all that is needed, but if you are using any type of outside filter be sure to use a sponge pre filter over the intake tube of the filter to prevent the shrimp and larva from being sucked up. Water circulation should be slow and these shrimp can withstand long periods without water changes.

Lifespan

These unique shrimp have been dubbed “super shrimp” for being highly adaptive and for having one of the longest life spans of any shrimp specie- up to twenty years!  Keeping these creatures healthy and happy should be easy and the reward is hours of entertainment for many years.

Filtration for freshwater shrimp

  By robert | March 19, 2011 - 8:29 pm | Fish and Invertebrates
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by Robert Paul Hudson

Filtration is important for keeping freshwater shrimp because most species are pretty sensitive to water conditions and ammonia or nitrate levels. Biological filtration is therefore extremely important.

In a shrimp only aquarium it is important to have the tank already cycled, or to add just a small number of shrimp and change the water frequently. Some shrimp keepers do daily water changes.  Even in heavily planted tanks it is a good idea to have a decent running bio filter. Often times a simple sponge filter is all that is needed and is the best choice for several reasons.

The sponge not only provides biologocal filtration, but is also a favored place for the shrimp to graze on organic matter and bio film. Shrimp will eagerly spend hours picking at the foam in utter delight. A sponge filter may be easily removed to be cleaned with very little disturbance. It is also easy to move from one aquarium to another if you need to provide immediate filtration for a new aquarium.

My favorite is the Hydrosponge filter. This model pictured above is for up to ten gallons. It is small in size, but has a strong, heavy base that keeps it upright and from falling over. I cannot stand the cheap sponge filters that have suction cups that rarely work. The lift tube creates a stronger current. There is a nipple inside the tube at the bottom where airline tubing connects, or a powerhead may be attached directly to the top of the tube.

Whatever type of filter you use, just make sure the current is not too strong and the shrimp do not get sucked up into the filter intake if you are using outside filters. A pre filter sponge attached to the intake tube will prevent this. Hydrosponge makes a good quality pre filter as well.

This beautiful 20 gallon shrimp and plant tank utilizes a sponge filter:

Guppy: Poecilia reticulata

  By robert | March 18, 2011 - 1:17 am | Fish and Invertebrates
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Guppies are a small tropical species which are easy to care for and add a rainbow of colour to the freshwater aquarium.

 The first written material on Guppies came from Wilhelm Peters, who observed the species in South America in 1859. Some years later, in 1886, the species were discovered in Trinidad by Robert John Lechmore Guppy and were given the scientific name Girardinus guppii in respect of his findings. The scientific name for the species has since changed several times, and currently Poecilia reticulata is considered the most accurate.

 Guppies are native to Trinidad, and regions of South America including Antigua and Barbuda, Brazil, Guyana, Tobago, the US Virgin Islands and Venezuela. However, the introduction of the species as a form of mosquito control and through accidental release has led to their presence in waterways around the world.  In some countries it was hoped that Guppies would eat mosquito larvae, helping to reduce the spread of diseases such as malaria. Unfortunately, in many cases the fish have had a negative impact on the natural flora and fauna in these areas.

 The fancy tail fins and colour variations found in guppies has made them extremely popular with breeders, who seek to accentuate favoured aspects to create their own varieties.  Amongst the many colour variations available, you’ll find shades of red, green, blue, yellow and purple, as well as metallic forms, and like snowflakes, no two guppies are the same. Males of the species tend to display brighter colours and more developed fins than females, although they are considerably smaller, with the average female reaching around 6cm in length when fully grown.

 The hardy species are an excellent choice for beginners as they need no special care and do well in all types of aquarium. The ideal water temperature for guppies is between 18-29°C and they adapt best to alkaline conditions. The most important aspect is to keep temperatures and P.H levels stable to avoid putting the fish under stress.

 Guppies need plenty of open swimming space, as well as foliage to hide  and rest in, and are at their happiest in groups. One thing you may need to bear in mind when stocking your tank with guppies is that they are famously prolific breeders, which bear live young. Female and male guppies are normally kept separated as just one encounter between male and female can led to the production of several hundred fry. The best way to tackle this is to choose to keep an all male or all female tank – in small groups the males guppies may become territorial and nip others, but given a large enough tank should experience no problems.

 Guppies are omnivorous and enjoy a variety of vegetable and animal origin foods. It is beneficial to feed your guppies small amounts, three times a day, with a selection of quality flake food and live or frozen protein boosters like brine shrimp and plankton.