Category Archives: Cichlid Fancy

Everything Cichlid

Cichlid Male Nannies Help Out, Especially If They’ve Been Sneaking

  By robert | October 30, 2011 - 2:16 am | Cichlid Fancy
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Cichlid Male Nannies Help Out, Especially If They’ve Been Sneaking

reprinted from sciencedaily.com

ScienceDaily (Oct. 12, 2011) — Subordinate male cichlid fish who help with the childcare for the dominant breeding pair are occasionally actually the fathers of some of the offspring they help to rear, according to new research from the University of Bristol published in the online journal PLoS ONE. This sneaky paternity increases the subordinate fish’s investment in the offspring in their care.

Neolamprologus pulcher displaying defense behavior. (Credit: Image by M. Taborsky)

The highly social cichlid fishNeolamprologus pulcher, endemic to Lake Tanganyika in Africa, live in social groups consisting of a dominant breeding pair and between 1 and 15 subordinates of both sexes that perform brood care, territory defence and maintenance. Subordinates are often distantly related or unrelated to the dominants.

Cooperative breeding of this kind has puzzled evolutionary biologists for a long time as it is costly and often does not generate obvious fitness benefits to subordinates. In the case of N. pulcher, the main benefit for subordinates to stay in a territory of dominant breeders seems to be the protection gained against predators provided by the large group members.

Previously, it was assumed that male subordinates never achieved paternity but the Bristol researchers suspected that, due to low relatedness between dominants and subordinates, mature male subordinates would attempt to father offspring and that achieving paternity would increase their helping behaviour.

The team, led by Dr Rick Bruintjes, tested this theory by studying groups of cichlids at Kasakalawe Point, Zambia and found that while dominant females were the mothers of 99.7 per cent of all offspring, the dominant males only sired 88.8 per cent. Subordinate females did not participate in reproduction, but male subordinates successfully gained paternity in 27.8 per cent of all clutches.

Furthermore, subordinate males that sired offspring defended more rigorously against egg predators compared to similar males that did not sire offspring, and they also tended to stay closer to the breeding shelter.

The study shows that the cooperative behaviour of the subordinate male fish has a direct fitness benefit for them — that is, producing their own offspring — as well as such indirect benefits as safety.

Dr Bruintjes said: “This is the first evidence in a cooperatively breeding fish species that the helping effort of male subordinates may depend on obtained paternity, which stresses the need to consider direct fitness benefits in evolutionary studies of helping behaviour.”

OMG My RAM cichlid laid eggs!

  By robert | August 6, 2011 - 10:15 pm | Cichlid Fancy
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Mikrogeophagus Ramirez guarding her eggs 

I just found a cluster of eggs on my log and my Rams are now guarding it. They’re not being too aggressive to their tankmates other than just keeping them away.  What should I do? Will the eggs survive?

More often than not, captive bred Ram cichlids do not make the best parents. Either of them may eat the eggs, or eat the fry wigglers after hatching, or even wait until the wigglers have grown out before eating them.  If you do not want to let nature take its course, remove the eggs to their own separate aquarium. It is normal instinctive behavior for both parents to take turns standing over the eggs and chasing away any intruders approaching the eggs. Some people have reported seeing the parents “cleaning” the eggs.

Microgeophagus Ramirez prefer to lay their eggs in the open on a flat surface. If you have a known breeding pair, you can prepare for the event by adding a nice flat piece of slate to the aquarium within easy reach. When the fish lay their eggs on the slate the whole thing can be easily removed to another tank. The eggs are stuck onto the rock with an adhesive like substance that makes removing just the eggs impossible. A pair will continue spawning every four to six weeks. and with each new brood they seem to learn from past experience. If any do survive their parents, it is most likely to be after a few attempts.

After around three days the eggs will hatch into “wrigglers” with yolk sacks still attached.  The larvae feed on the yolks for about a week. The yolks get smaller as they are consumed until gone.

Three day old larvae with eyes and internal organs developing

 

It is important to feed the fry Infusoria, green water, and then micro worms when they will fit in their mouths. Everything poses a threat to the eggs and fry. If they survive to reach the free swimming stage, the parents have a hard time herding them close together and any fry that venture to far away are likely to become snacks for other fish.  Ram fry do not instantly drop to the tank bottom on a signal by the parents like many Apistogrammas do, so they are much easier targets.

 

Further reading:

http://www.dwarfcichlid.com/Breeding_Blue_Rams.php

Getting to Know the Ram Cichlid

  By FishFAQs | April 23, 2011 - 12:47 am | Cichlid Fancy
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By Aaron Guzman

With its small stature and attractive colors, the Ram Cichlid is one of the most popular species of dwarf cichlid in the hobby. It is well-suited to peaceful community tanks and can make a great addition to planted aquariums. Now heavily bred in captivity, the Ram Cichlid is widely available to hobbyists.

General Information on the Ram Cichlid

The Ram Cichlid was originally described by Meyers and Harry in 1948 and since being introduced into the hobby has steadily gained in popularlity. The Ram Cichlid, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi goes by many names, including the Butterfly Cichlid, German Ram, Blue Ram, and the German Blue Ram. It has also been previously classified under the scientific names Apistogramma ramirezi, Microgeophagus, Papiliochromis,Pseudoapistogramma, and Pseudogeophagus.

Mikrogeophagus ramirezi hails from the continent of South America, specifically western Venezuela and Columbia. Ram cichlids have become very popular in the hobby and widely bred in captivity. However, in recent years collection from the wild has resumed as breeders and merchandisers have reported smaller sizes and weaker colors due to extensive inbreeding. Deformities in the head, fins, and lateral lines are not uncommon. Heavily inbred specimens also run the risk of infertility. Be sure to carefully check any fish being purchased. Wild-caught Ram Cichlids are much more vibrant in color and tend to be larger.

Rams are a relatively peaceful, communal fish well-suited for calm community aquariums. They readily pair up and breed when provided the proper conditions. The females tend to be smaller with a short second ray on the dorsal fin and a pink to reddish coloration on the stomach. Ram Cichlids grow to an average length of 3 inches and have an average lifespan of 2-3 years.

Housing Ram Cichlids

Ram Cichlids are excellent community members and can be housed with many smaller, like-minded tankmates. Rams tend to be shy and reclusive. They will appreciate an aquarium of at least 10 gallons (20 inches in length) with plenty of hiding spots. Ideally, they should be provided with a heavily planted aquarium complete with dense clusters of plants for hiding and open swimming areas.

Mikrogeophagus ramirezi needs stable water parameters coupled with frequent water changes. They are very sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels as well as any swings in water chemistry. They will prefer slightly soft water with a neutral pH (7.0).  The water temperature should be maintained between 72-79 degrees Fahrenheit (22-26 degrees Centigrade). Be aware that Ram Cichlids are very sensitive to medications, especially copper. Great care must be exercised when dosing their aquarium.

Feeding Ram Cichlids

Mikrogeophagus ramirezi are true omnivores and as such require a well-rounded diet. The core of this diet should consist of a high-quality packaged food, preferably a small sinking pellet designed for cichlids. Small meaty foods and live foods should be included in the Ram’s diet. Small pieces of fish flesh, shrimp flesh, or clams are great choices. Live foods can include brine shrimp, tubifex/bloodworms, blackworms, daphnia, and small shrimp. There are also many frozen varieties of foods that will suffice.

Cichlids require vegetable matter in their diet to remain healthy and fight off disease. Some sort of vegetable matter should be supplemented in the Ram Cichlid’s diet such as algae wafers, seaweed, spirulina, or bits of blanched zucchini. Unsalted peas can also be fed, however this should be done only occasionally, as peas act as a laxative for fish.

Ram Cichlids are small yet attractive additions to a community aquarium or planted aquarium. Their small size, eye-catching appearance, and relative ease of care has ensured the continuing popularity of these dwarf cichlids. While perhaps not the best of choices for beginners, these fish will fare well under the care of any devoted aquarist.


Source: Baensch, Hans; Riehl, Rudiger, ed. Aquarium Atlas. 1982.

Wonder Stuff! Gobiocichla wonderi

  By Matt Ford | April 19, 2011 - 5:53 am | Cichlid Fancy
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By Matt Ford

©seriouslyfish.com

Rheophilic dwarf cichlids are not a popular group of aquarium fishes, existing as they do under rather extreme conditions which make them tough to collect and consequently quite rare in the hobby. Unfortunately the original plan to cover Teleocichla spp. for this blog was curtailed once I realised the majority of my old images were on a laptop stolen during a break-in a few years ago, so instead here follows a brief introduction to the West African rapids-dweller Gobiocichla wonderi Kanazawa, 1951.

©seriouslyfish.com

Described from close to the settlement of Sotuba, Mali (known as French Sudan at the time) in the middle section of the great Niger River, it’s since been recorded from parts of both upper and lower Niger basins in Guinea and Nigeria, respectively, and therefore presumably occurs in Niger and possibly Benin, too.

Within this vast body of water G. wonderi inhabits marginal zones close to stretches of rapids/cataracts where the current is somewhat reduced and the substrate composed of bedrock, boulders and smaller stones, sometimes interspersed with stretches of open sand or coarse gravel. In the aquarium it’s essential to provide a similar kind of set-up, with plenty of water-worn rocks forming broken lines of sight since males in particular are vigorously territorial with one another and can be surprisingly violent. Aquatic plants are not a feature of the natural habitat but can be used if you wish.

Water quality must be impeccable given the species naturally inhabits fast-flowing waters where accumulation of organic pollutants is more-or-less absent, so weekly water changes of 25-50% should be considered routine. Although there’s no need to create torrent-like conditions in the tank strong oxygenation is a prerequisite and the use of an additional airstone or two may therefore be necessary. Don’t be tempted to install extra powerheads or strong pumps as if the flow is too strong the fish will simply conceal themseves and feeding behaviour may be inhibited.

Typical feeding marks left by grazing G. wonderi ©seriouslyfish.com

Feeding is of course a primary concern when maintaining any fish species in captivity, and Gobiocichla are somewhat specialised in this respect. The intestine is extremely long and designed to cope with a low protein diet composed largely of epilithic algae and diatoms plus other microorganisms and detritus which is scraped from solid surfaces using specialised dentition. Care must therefore be taken with the occasional meal of live or frozen Artemia or Cyclops more than sufficient in terms of protein. Do not feed bloodworm, earthworms and suchlike.

Ideally the fish should be introduced to a mature aquarium with extensive growths of aufwuchs allowing them to display natural feeding behaviour, but of course this isn’t always possible, so as an alternative offer high quality dried foods containing appropriate proportions of Spirulina or other vegetative matter as staple.

Sexing can be difficult, especially in young specimens. Males grow to around 120 mm TL and develop elongated dorsal and anal fins as they reach sexual maturity. Females are a little smaller and appear slightly fuller-bodied when gravid. When breeding the differences are clearer as the body colouration in males darkens considerably to an extent whereby the dark lateral stripe is not visible at times; at other times both sexes display an overall yellowish/golden colouration.

©seriouslyfish.com

This species spawns in caves among rocks and forms weak, temporary pair bonds with some, usually inexperienced, males ending involvement once the eggs are laid and fertilised. Most remain in the general vicinity though and play some part in brood care, especially once the fry are free swimming. This usually occurs some three weeks post-spawning with parental behaviour continuing for a further 4-5 weeks.

©seriouslyfish.com

There is only one other species in the genus at time of writing. G. ethelwynnae Roberts, 1982 is native to the Cross River drainage in western Cameroon and is very similar to G. wonderi in the majority of respects including aquarium care, though oddly no-one appears to have bred it thus far. The two differ in various morphological characters, but the most immediately useful for aquarists is the fact that the dark, lateral body stripe passes through the eye in G. ethelwynnae, as opposed to under it in G. wonderi.

Pelvicachromis sacrimontis… A Giant Dwarf

  By robert | April 18, 2011 - 3:40 pm | Cichlid Fancy
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Text and photos by Ted Judy

‘Dwarf’ is a relative term, and no more so than when using it to describe a cichlid.  The generally accepted definition of a dwarf cichlid is a fish that reaches a maximum adult size of approximately 4” (or 10 cm) in length; but there are other characterizations that are often used to describe dwarf cichlids that can be wholly inaccurate if the definition is based upon size.  Many aquarists will describe dwarf cichlids as small, pair-bonding, substrate or cave spawning and able to be maintained in small aquariums (another relative generalization).  But there are MANY species that are under 4” total length that do not fit that mold (like all the Lake Malawi Labidochromis sp.)

 There are also many cichlid species that fit the characterization of bi-parental substrate spawners that are small, but maybe not quite small enough, and are lumped into the genre of dwarf cichlid.  Good examples of that group are the species that make up the West African genus Pelvicachromis.  Most of us would call them dwarf cichlids, but there are only two species that have males that rarely grow larger than 4”:  P. roloffi and P. subocellatus.  The males of all the other species easily reach 4”, and four will bust that limit by 2” or more… easy.  One of those is the topic of this article:  P. sacrimontis… the Giant Krib.


Green variation- male


 The giant krib has been around in the hobby for decades.  It is exported from its natural range of the coastal regions of western Nigeria (near the capital of Lagos).  In the 1970’s and into the early 1990’s the fish arrived in boxes of ‘mixed kribensis’ along with P. pulcher, P. taeniatus and P. sp. aff. subocellatus.  Those boxes were a LOT of fun!  Occasionally you could pay a little more for a box of ‘giant kribensis’, and you would get a box of BIG P. pulcher, P. taeniatus and P. sacrimontis. 

 One of the problems with ordering them was that the valid name of the species caused some confusion for a long time.  The most famous hobbyist reference came in the 1995 publication of The Cichlids from West Africa by Linke and Staeck.  Unfortunately, the debate on the name had not been settled at the time of publication, so the authors used the undescribed moniker P. sp. aff. pulcher.  Unfortunate, because the valid description of P. sacrimontis was published by Paulo in 1977.  It was not until Anton Lamboj published his book, The Cichlid Fishes of Western Africa in 2004, that the name P. sacrimontis was generally accepted by hobbyists.  We tend to read the books with the pretty pictures…


Green variation- female

 There are three known color varieties of P. sacrimontis.  The ‘yellow’ variety is rarely imported (I have never seen one alive).  The pictures I have seen depict a lighter brown fish with a lot of yellow in the fins and a brighter lateral line stripe than the other color morphs.  The other two, red and green, are almost identical (especially the females) except that the males of the green variety have a green breast and a red belly, while the males of the red variety have only red.  There is some debate as to whether or not the two colors are different collection locations or not.  I have seen both morphs imported together in the same box, but that does not mean very much.  Collectors bring the fish to the export houses where all the fish are put into holding tanks together.  Until someone can get into the Lagos area and find the collection locations, we may never know if the color forms are different locations or not.  Unfortunately, Nigeria is not the safest place to go for a fish collecting vacation.

 My experience with the species has been that they are not difficult to keep, but need some space to help control their aggression towards each other.  If a large aquarium cannot be provided, a lot of structure is needed to ensure that subdominant fish do not get killed.  The aggression problem is also why I do not suggest keeping the fish as a single pair.  Eventually the male will go after the female.  I keep a group of four females and one male in a 40-gallon ‘breeder’ aquarium with a lot of driftwood, spawning caves and a large mass of suspended plants (some type of hornwort… I am no botanist).  The subdominant females spend a lot of time hiding, but there are enough of them to dilute the aggression of the pair, and there is enough cover, that none are being hurt.

 Giant kribs have a reputation of being hard to spawn.  That has not been my experience, though they are less frequent breeders than P. pulcher (the meter stick by which all the other species in the genus are measured).  I think that on a scale of 1 -10, with 10 being ‘just add water and they will breed), P. sacrimontis is a 7.   The key factors for success in my fish room were to not try to breed a pair alone and give the fish a lot of very private spawning sites.  More that half of the spawns that have occurred in my tanks went unnoticed until the fry were being led around the tank by their parents.  Cave choice is important too.   They are typical kribs in that they like a roomy cave with an opening just large enough or the male to slip into.  I offer three types of caves:  domes, burritos and coconut shells.  The dome is a clay cave with a flat bottom and an opening at its base.  The clay burrito looks like its name and has a hole cut in its side.  The coconut shells the fish like best are whole with a 1” diameter hole in one spot.  In a large enough tank with a lot of caves (at least one per female) I have had two females breeding with one male at the same time.

 Water chemistry is not important for keeping this species so long as the extremes are avoided.  The pH is important for the sex ratio of the fry, however, so close to neutral is better is you want both males and females.  Cooler temperatures in the range of 72 – 76 are preferred over hotter water.  If the tap water has a KH > 10, there is a chance that fertilization rates of the eggs will be reduced.  My KH out of my tap is 15, so I use 50/50 RO and tap when I do water changes.  When I am vey sure that a spawn in eminent, I will do some changes with pure R/O water so that the pH will come down to as close to neutral as possible.

 P. sacrimontis in nature is primarily a plant detritus feeders, but in captivity they will eat anything.  Plant-based flake foods are perfect for long-term care.  Higher protein pellets and live foods will help condition females to spawn, but a diet of nothing but the rich stuff will shorten the fishes’ life spans.  With good care, water and a vegetable-based diet, these fish can live and breed for years.  My best pair lasted 5 years with regular spawns (3 – 4 times a year).

 Now that the exporters in Nigeria know what the species is, and that there is a demand for it, P. sacrimontis no longer arrives in boxes of mixed species.  They are available regularly, but in the past few years the frequency of their arrival has lessened.  There is some concern that their numbers are dwindling due to pollution caused by oil drilling in their coastal habitat; but so far nobody has risked going there to find out what is happening.  Just in case, P. sacrimontis should be thought of as a ‘species of concern’, and as a good candidate for a long-term maintenance project.  We will never know if the last box to arrive is the last box we will ever get of this wonderful fish or not.

Are shell dwellers dwarf cichlids?

  By robert | April 17, 2011 - 3:45 am | Cichlid Fancy
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By Joshua Wiegert


Nannacara  anomala

When Robert asked me to write an additional article on dwarf cichlids, I was a little hesitant.  It’s a very broad topic and somewhat out of my field of expertise.  Choosing a single species to write about is certainly difficult.  One of my favourites is the golden-eyed dwarf, Nannacara  anomala, which is a beautiful fish becoming hard to find.  There are a lot of very interesting and pretty West African dwarfs, from the various “krib” species (Pelvichachromis spp.) to groups like the Nanochromis.  A little further East, and there are the interesting and beautiful Tanganyikan shell dwellers.  Then, there are the inevitable Apistogramma, fish that are synonymous with “dwarf cichlid” to many of us.  And, of course, there are lots of other fish in between, so what to choose, what to choose.


A shell-dwelling male Lamprologus stappersi displays his dominance.

Then, I got to thinking about just how diverse the group is, and wondering what they had in common, aside from being cichlids.  Well, of course, the “dwarf” part springs to mind.  Dwarf cichlids are generally those that do not exceed 4” in length, give or take.  As a general rule, their small size makes them quite a bit less aggressive than other cichlids – but there are definite exceptions (just as there are some big cichlids that aren’t particularly aggressive).  So, given that the size is the defining factor of a dwarf cichlid – mirror mirror, on the tank, which cichlid is the most dwarf in size and rank?


Neolamprologus multifasciatus

The smallest of the dwarf cichlids you’re ever likely to encounter are the shell-dwelling cichlids from Lake Tanganyika, with Neolamprologus multifasciatus being the smallest.  The females of this species measure in at less than an inch, with the males coming in at a whopping 2”, if you stretch them a little.  They’re very similar to the larger species, N. brevis and N. similis, both of which reach about 3”.  Generally, you’ll see these guys sold as one another, as they’re rather hard to tell apart. 


Neolamprologus multifasciatus

You can actually keep a couple pairs of these guys in a tank as small as a 10-g.  It’s best to keep them in a sand covered bottom, and with several larger snail shells for them to make a home.  Choosing tank mates is not particularly difficult: they’re not aggressive, and some slow moving, bold fish will help make them feel comfortable.  Any tetra species is ideal, as are some of the less aggressive barbs (e.g., cherry barbs). 

A pair will set up house inside a snail shell, and if they’re well cared for, they’ll continually produce a few fry.  Supposedly, spawns can reach as many as 50-individuals, but you’re more likely to see five in an aquarium!

 Of course, the Neos are not the smallest dwarf cichlid out there.  That title goes to a very unique species of Apistogramma, A. angayuara.  While the Apistos are known for bright, showy colours… this one ain’t.  It’s a brown fish with a couple of dots and some lines on it.  It kind of reminds me of an ugly Checkerboard Cichlid.  This, however, is not what makes it unusual.  While most Apistos can be found in slow moving, still swamps, this little guy likes to live in rapids.  Not just flowing streams, but fast moving, rapid churning water.  Its diet is quite a bit unusual, too.  It essentially eats microbes, such as Amoeba.  Needless to say, you can’t get particularly big eating Amoeba.  The biggest Angie found yet was 0.97 inches.  Tiny, ugly, but easy to feed. . . this might be a fish for me.

HUNTING AND KEEPING UMBRELLA DWARF CICHLIDS

  By robert | April 9, 2011 - 11:31 pm | Cichlid Fancy
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Text and Photos by Stan Sung

APISTOGRAMMA BORELLII

The day started out perfectly great. The golden afternoon sun was shining and we were pulling out an amazing assortment of aquatic gems from several plant – choked pools. We were in the far Northern reaches of Uruguay – a stone’s throw away from the border of Brazil. We were collecting magnificent Pyrrhulina sp, Hyphessobrycons, Simpsonichthys as well as Dwarf Cichlids of the genus Apistogramma. These little treasures glistened midnight blue and purple in the hot afternoon sun.

Lake at Bella Union

Simpsonichthys nigripinnis Bella Union

What could go wrong on such a day you may ask? Well …Fellow expedition member Jim Herman was collecting among the tangles of vegetation and gashed his knee horrendously on a razor – sharp piece of submersed rock. I looked up from my photo tank to see a look of horror in my friend’s eye … The blood was gushing out of his wound so quickly that everything below his knee was a wash of red. We knew we had to pack up quick and get Jim to the hospital at once. So much for the dreamy day collecting in perfect conditions and weather! There is a happy ending to this eventful day – and that is that.  Jim was sewn up (no charge) at the efficient and well – run hospital in Bella Union.

APISTOGRAMMA BORELLII or UMBRELLA DWARF CICHLID

The males of this stately and colorful dwarf cichlid is can range from purple to sky blue – with a yellow tail. Females in breeding condition are striking in a suit of yellow and black. The Blue and yellow coloration of both sexes provide for a handsome little fish ideally suited for the home aquarium. In captivity, this is a durable and outgoing residents for the species or community aquarium. I placed eight wild caught individuals into an aquarium of 180 gallons along with other wild Uruguayan fishes. Species such as Characidium sp, Corydoras paleatus, Hyphessobrycon eques get along swimmingly with A. borellii. My specimens were constantly colored – up and bred repeatedly in this set up. These are not choosy fishes in regards to water chemistry or temperature. Basic neutral or even alkaline water of 72 to 80 degrees will suit them fine.

To properly duplicate their natural environment it is best to place them in an aquarium containing dense vegetation. Provide caves in the form of stones and roots. This species is a cave spawner. On a diet rich in frozen or live foods, these little cichlids will soon come into spawning condition. Up to 150 light red, eggs laid within a cave or crevice. The boldly colored females step up their aggression level at this point and will courageously defend the eggs and fry. The larger males will generally guard the immediate territory from any intruders. Eggs hatch in about five days and rearing them is straight forward as in any other small cichlid.

CONCLUSION

Finding quality stock of Umbrella Dwarf Cichlids can be difficult. Some inbred lines appear very slender and long – bodied. These usually have a washed out – light blue coloration in the males. Not at all like the stocky, richly hued males pulled out from the wilds of South America. Look for bright, outgoing, and interactive specimens of this and other Apistogrammas at your local fish store. I like to place a school of Serpae Tetras in my enclosures containing Apistogramma borellii – the red ruby coloration of the tetras, the blue and yellow dwarf cichlids compliment one another, and together they make a splashing display.

Angelfish: Pterophyllum scalare

  By robert | March 4, 2011 - 3:44 pm | Cichlid Fancy
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Angelfish are a triangular-shaped tropical species which originate from South America and add a touch of elegance to the freshwater aquarium.

Wild Angelfish are silver in colour, but selective breeding has created many more colour variations, including gold, zebra, veil-tail, black lace and pearl scale. Although Angelfish are members of the Cichlid family, they have little resemblance to other species in this group, with their own unique look. Angelfish have almost flat bodies with a pointed nose shape and are often described as discus or leaf shaped. Freshwater Angelfish are no relation to marine Angelfish, but were given the name due to their somewhat similar appearance.

Ideal tank mates for the Angelfish include Platys, Guppies and Bala Sharks. Species which are known to nip at fins and tails (for example Tiger Barbs) are best avoided as they may cause damage to the Angelfish’s trailing fins. Angelfish live in groups in their natural habitat, so adding several to your tank will help them feel more at home and confident. From the age of 6 months, Angelfish become sexually mature and male and female fish may form a breeding pair and spawn young, although this will usually only occur in ideal conditions.

The best type of tank in which to keep Angelfish is one that is tall as well as wide, as this species likes to swim at all levels of the tank. Newly purchased specimens may be fairly small, but in the correct conditions can grow to around 15cm vertically, so it is important to select a tank which is large enough to accommodate this growth. Plants should be introduced to provide a habitat which mimics the Angelfish’s natural environment – the Amazon River and it’s tributaries. In the wild, this slender bodied species hides from predators amongst tightly packed bulrushes, and providing a similar habitat will help them to feel more secure within the tank. Try an Amazon Sword Plant, a broad-leafed aquatic plant, which is native to South America, and is a favourite of the Angelfish. Java Moss and Water Sprite are also popular additions to an Angelfish tank.

Despite their fragile appearance, Angelfish are fairly robust and can handle soft to medium acidity, and a warm water temperature of around 27°C. Fluctuations of temperature should be avoided, as it can cause stress in this breed, so it is recommended that a tank thermostat is used.

Angelfish are good feeders and will over-eat if allowed. Owners of this species should provide a balanced and varied diet which includes material of plant and animal origin. A high quality flake food provides an excellent basis for the daily feed, supplemented with finely chopped earthworms, live brine shrimp, mosquito larvae or black-worms. Angelfish are more susceptible to disease, so it is vital to ensure any live foods used are from a reliable source. Chopped ox heart can also be fed to Angelfish, but any fat must be removed beforehand.

Monster in a tank: Oscar Fish, Astronotus ocellatus

  By robert | February 26, 2011 - 3:58 am | Cichlid Fancy
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by staff

The Oscar Fish is a member of the cichlid family, a freshwater species which is notable for its high levels of intelligence and playful nature.

Oscar Fish are native to South America, where they are found in the Amazon and Orinoco River Basins. Oscar Fish have very large mouths and their scientific name provides a description of their unique patterns. Astronotus means marked with a star, while ocellatus translates as “eye spot”. The natural colour range of Oscar Fish is brown with crimson and orange markings. You may see Oscar Fish which are brightly and exotically coloured in shades of purple or blue. These are white Oscars which have been dyed, a process which causes suffering for the fish and leaves them susceptible to infections.

Young Oscar Fish grow very rapidly, at over an inch per month, reaching an average size of at least 12 inches, with a body mass of around 3.5 pounds. The large species are known for their longevity, living for at least ten years when kept in healthy conditions.

Owners of Oscar Fish report that this species is one of the most friendliest and quickly learn to recognise the person who feeds them. Patient fish keepers may see their Oscar Fish begging for food, and some even perform tricks, which has led to them being nicknamed “river-dogs”.

As a fish with a big personality to match its physical size, Oscar Fish can be aggressive toward fish of the same and other species. Providing the tank is big enough, you should not experience many problems, but tank mates should be selected with caution. Small species such as the Neon Tetra will not last long in a community aquarium with an Oscar Fish, and it is best to choose a species which can defend itself if necessary. Good options would be Clown Loach, Silver Dollars or Catfish. Avoid over-stocking your aquarium, as Oscar Fish do need plenty of space to live and grow, with experts recommending a minimum aquarium capacity of 55 gallons for just one of these fish.

Oscars do best in a tank which maintains a constant temperature of 22- 26°, and a PH of around 7.2. Oscar Fish like to have plenty of hiding places so plant your tank well and add driftwood, rocks and decorations. In many cases, Oscars have been observed to rearrange their tank decorations!

Oscar Fish are predatory fish which will eat anything they can find. In their natural habitat, this would include crustaceans, small fish, plants and berries. Indulge the Oscars carnivorous nature, many owners feed chopped ox-heart or even feeder fish, which should be given in small amounts only, to avoid overfeeding. Oscars need to enjoy a varied diet to flourish, and poor nutrition is often to blame in cases of Hole In The Head, an curable infection(in some cases) which causes pitting and deterioration of the flesh on the infected fish’s head.